Last summer got a budget to buy TriAxis and 2:90. I wanted to have a "live" rig that could reproduce the mix I got on engineered tracks. It exceeded all my expectations. Fast approaching the point I can comfortably work the TA/2:90/
Had to go analog stereo with parallel effect loop (it do sound mighty tasty if-en I do say so me-self!). Did not have a budget for "store bought" speaker cabs, so I had to roll my own (had to fabricate my rack enclosure too) ...
The cabs are 100W 1 x 12 @ 4 ohm. They sound great. Took a while to figure out that the best "crunch" can be had by backing off the TA master and lead channel gain (south of 4), zero for the TA "presence" and dynamic voicing at 1. Read complaints that TA + 2:90 required the treble be cranked and the bass set flat. The cure for mushy harmonics, IMO, is to simply to back off the "compression" (btw, the 2:90 presence is set at [about] 12 o'clock).
Regarding adding 2 more 1x cabs ...
Going to build my self a speaker rig. Each speaker cab will have 2 axis gimbals (vertical and horizontal panning). Btw, the top of the top speaker will breach 6ft!
Considering stacking 10 inch speakers (instead of 12). Each side would have a 1 x 12 + 1 x 10 cab.
Considerations ...
1) Should I worry about running a 10 inch with 12 inch speakers?
2) The 12's are 4 ohm. The only available 100W 10 inch speaker is an 8 ohm. The 12's are using one of the 4 ohm A/B port out pairs. Could the 10 inch speakers run out of the 2:90 8 ohm port outs?
3) Could a lower rated 10 inch speaker be used. For example, a 75W or 50W?
4) Would a 10 inch bass speaker work? Is the frequency and transient response similar to a 10 inch guitar speaker?
Regarding a VU to visually verify the 2:90 A/B output levels ...
The analog/stereo delay and chorus use a parallel signal path. They modulate in stereo. It sounds great and don't mush-up like a cascaded loop. The biggest issue is assuring the A/B channels are "balanced". If one is just a fraction out of balance, the modulation is compromised. Any information on how to implement VU to visually confirm A/B output would be appreciated - even a DIY roll your own approach would be acceptable (my soldering skills have improved because I [also] did not have a budget for all the high quality patch cables required to hook it all up.
Had to go analog stereo with parallel effect loop (it do sound mighty tasty if-en I do say so me-self!). Did not have a budget for "store bought" speaker cabs, so I had to roll my own (had to fabricate my rack enclosure too) ...
The cabs are 100W 1 x 12 @ 4 ohm. They sound great. Took a while to figure out that the best "crunch" can be had by backing off the TA master and lead channel gain (south of 4), zero for the TA "presence" and dynamic voicing at 1. Read complaints that TA + 2:90 required the treble be cranked and the bass set flat. The cure for mushy harmonics, IMO, is to simply to back off the "compression" (btw, the 2:90 presence is set at [about] 12 o'clock).
Regarding adding 2 more 1x cabs ...
Going to build my self a speaker rig. Each speaker cab will have 2 axis gimbals (vertical and horizontal panning). Btw, the top of the top speaker will breach 6ft!
Considering stacking 10 inch speakers (instead of 12). Each side would have a 1 x 12 + 1 x 10 cab.
Considerations ...
1) Should I worry about running a 10 inch with 12 inch speakers?
2) The 12's are 4 ohm. The only available 100W 10 inch speaker is an 8 ohm. The 12's are using one of the 4 ohm A/B port out pairs. Could the 10 inch speakers run out of the 2:90 8 ohm port outs?
3) Could a lower rated 10 inch speaker be used. For example, a 75W or 50W?
4) Would a 10 inch bass speaker work? Is the frequency and transient response similar to a 10 inch guitar speaker?
Regarding a VU to visually verify the 2:90 A/B output levels ...
The analog/stereo delay and chorus use a parallel signal path. They modulate in stereo. It sounds great and don't mush-up like a cascaded loop. The biggest issue is assuring the A/B channels are "balanced". If one is just a fraction out of balance, the modulation is compromised. Any information on how to implement VU to visually confirm A/B output would be appreciated - even a DIY roll your own approach would be acceptable (my soldering skills have improved because I [also] did not have a budget for all the high quality patch cables required to hook it all up.
