cab switching pedal?

[kiff]

I'm not sure if they're made commercially perse, but you can easily make one. I used one for a talk-box my old bassist made for me. You'll need to use a DPTP switch/button since you must switch both leads/wires as opposed to just the "hot" for a signal...

edit: now that I think about it, you could probably use a SPDT switch and treat one as a common (not grounded!) and treat the other as a "hot". I'd still say using a dpdt would be on the safe side...

 

[newfinator]

Like this: http://www.tonebone.com/tb-cabbone.htm?

 

[mr_fender]

Be VERY careful with that. When you switch a DPDT switch, there is a short period of time when the pole is touching neither throw (this is called break before make switching). That means there is a short period of time when there is no load on the amp. That is BAD! There is also a very short period of time when the switch contacts are actually bouncing when switching over too. This could damage your amp, so be VERY careful about when you switch cabs. I'd suggest powering down first, then switching and then powering back up (just like if you swapping cables).

The exception to this is to use make before break switches. This means that as the switch moves over, the pole is touching both throws in the in-between time instead of neither. In that case, while the switch is changing, both cabs are connected in parallel for the short period of time and there is not a time when there is no load at all. That is the way the Roadking speaker switching works. It is carefully timed, so there is never a time when there is no load on the amp while running.

It's not as simple as just using an A/B box when your talking about speaker loads. Switching them in and out like that can cause big spikes in current that can damage your amp and/or speakers. There are load switching devices on the market, and they are specifically designed to avoid this.

Don't risk your amp. Just power down and switch cabs manually.

 

[mr_fender]

Like this: http://www.tonebone.com/tb-cabbone.htm?

That's a good one. See, from the website:

"And Cabbone is safe – switching is controlled by a timer IC that manages a ramped connection overlap. This ensures a constant load on the output, a major concern with tube amps. With SafeMode™ the input signal connects to output-1 automatically if power is ever lost."

It's also about $200 bucks. Better safe than sorry, though.

 

[kiff]

cool, thanks for the enlightenment. I didn't think the very brief break of the load would be a big deal, but I guess I was wrong...

 

[stoneattic]

These guys used to have schematics to DIY: http://www.aikenamps.com/

I don't see them on the site any more though. My guess is it's a CYA thing, but I built one following his schematic and it works great. Maybe you can email him and see if they will send you a copy. I don't seem to have the schematic any more.

 

[babow2]

There is always the no cost, inelegant, "old school" solution. Run both cabinets at the same time from the amp using long speaker cables. Put one outside the room, or face down, or some other way to minimize the volume. then move that one into place and the current one "out of place' and viola you can compare the tone.

If you have access to a real recording studio, you can use baffled spaces to isolate the cabinets and walk between the baffles.

You get the idea.
Brent

 

[stoneattic]

I found the Aiken Head Switcher schematic if any one is interested.

 

[kiff]

I found the Aiken Head Switcher schematic if any one is interested.

I'd really like to see it.

 

[stoneattic]

I found the Aiken Head Switcher schematic if any one is interested.

I'd really like to see it.

Here ya go:

http://www.4shared.com/file/64199566/616c91e7/HeadSwitch.html

 

[kiff]

I found the Aiken Head Switcher schematic if any one is interested.

I'd really like to see it.

Here ya go:

http://www.4shared.com/file/64199566/616c91e7/HeadSwitch.html

cool man, thnx

 

[stoneattic]

Here ya go:

http://www.4shared.com/file/64199566/616c91e7/HeadSwitch.html

Looks like the design for an AB/Y pedal for going into two amps not coming out of one amp and allowing A/B switching between two speaker cabs. But nice to know about just the same.

Thanks all for the informative responses on the cab switching pedal.
I have done the satndby, pull and plug in the other cab routine but wanted something quicker/ more immediate.

Crap, I have a file called cabswitch in that folder that has a file size of zero kb. It's obviously corrupt and didn't upload. I'll look to see if I can find a good copy of it.

 

[mr_fender]

Schematic looks like it should work. I'd be very careful about the relays you choose though. This design suffers from the exact same pitfall as simply using a regular stomp switch. It could cause current spikes when switching. The 470 ohm resistors across the amp inputs should keep a load on the amps while the switches are moving over, but it still could stress your amp and/or speakers. Looks like it could make your speakers pop like hell when you switch it over too. Be careful!

 

[stoneattic]

Schematic looks like it should work. I'd be very careful about the relays you choose though. This design suffers from the exact same pitfall as simply using a regular stomp switch. It could cause current spikes when switching. The 470 ohm resistors across the amp inputs should keep a load on the amps while the switches are moving over, but it still could stress your amp and/or speakers. Looks like it could make your speakers pop like hell when you switch it over too. Be careful!

I've used the Head Switcher on and off for the past 5+ years with out any problems. There is no significant speaker pop. I say significant because I don't have it in front of me to check, but I used it at gigs and switched amp heads in the middle of songs and I'm sue if it popped I would have noticed.

I've used it in various combinations with my M/B Studio Caliber, Musicman 65-212 and my Fender Stage Lead II (solid state) and they are all still going strong.

 

[kiff]

yea, the one that I used many years ago for the talk-box never caused any issues. I was using a peavey classic 60 (tube) power amp and it never failed. That said, mr_fender is right and I wouldn't risk my boogie with it...

if you find the correct schematic please post it. I'd be interested to see how they do the timing on it. If it's designed correctly then they should have an overlap period...