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Can I use a 25k volume pedal to tap volume at this SLAVE/LINE point on an original boogie. I know I can do it in a true loop ... but these are just tap points for Mk1 pre-amp to other amps & using the Mk1 power amp for another preamp. So ... if it can be done, what do you plug where? Also...

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I have recently added an Iron Sounds loop to the Brown Note D'Lite 22/33 with great success. Is it possible to add a true loop to the original Mark1? Anyone done it? Any schematics or pictures?

I looked at it on the website and it's described as an A OR B switch. I have an A OR B that just doesn't work with my model. I think the original Mesa switch may have been an A OR A+B switch. I think if I bought this one, I'd have two that don't work. I may try to find one in a store and...

Yes ... in fact ... my perfect solution is a footswitchable channel 1 "As-Is" with a channel 2 with a clean gain boost (specifcally the Xotic RC Boost) that is loud enough to compete. Now the only issue is ... they are not really separate channels. The input 1 is in series with the input 2...

Will that affect the input 1 sound? Since the stack is in series with the 2nd stack? So have you used a 25k volume pedal to tap off the power here? Would that work? It works on another amp that I have with a true loop.

Mine is wired for the switchable gain boost but for 30 years it's been far too over the top for me. I'm actually just wanting to add a bit more volume to the 2nd clean channel. The first channel is fine.

Will it do it with the original Mark 1 though? A regular A/B switch (like my Boss LS2) does not work. I got the LS2 thinking a regular A/B switch would do the job. I can easily build what I need ... if I can just get a look at the schematic. I might be able to adjust the auto ground tab...

I want to run a clean gain boost on the 2nd channel, but need the switcher to set it up. Like this: guitar >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Input 1 (All gain stacks) OR guitar >>> clean boost >>> Input 2 (minus the first gain stack) Reopening this project from last year ... my thought was: Use the...

Actually, the original Mark 1 (like my '78 60w/100w) didn't really have real loops. In fact, mine did not work with a reverb device in the loop. I think the IN and OUT shown in the attached picture are probably just taps between the preamp and poweramp. I was wondering what were they really...

Anybody got a schematic of the original Mark 1 Channel 1/2 footswitch? It was a simple footswitch but wired a bit different than a regular A/B switch. I think they still sell them but I'm thinking about this old project again.

I've been gone for a while and returned to do a search for an issue on my original MK1. But the search isn't working for terms like "loop", "boost", even "mark". I noticed the format has changed ... what's up? What am I doing wrong?

Not on my '78 ... later they did I think. But all fixed up with a 12AX7 instead and all the supporting cast of components. Working fine for quite a while now.

Never used the gain boost (too much bass) and never use the bright (it's pretty bright with the EVM). For years with humbuckers I would drop the mids to 3 and roll back the tones ... but not so much now. When I got single coil guitars, I had to move the mids up to 7 but I've gotten to like...

I've had mine since '78 and this is pretty close: V1 = 8 V2 = 8 T = 7-8 m = 7 b = 2-3 m = 2 p = 3-4

I have scanned the instructions into 5 pages of HTM documents. PM me with your email address and I'll send them to you.

I can check ... but I can tell you off the top that both are push/pull pots on the two volume pots. The bright switch is simply that but the Gain Boost is a bypass of the treble-mid-bass and can be controlled with a simple footswitch via a 1/4" jack on the back panel. The gain boost is almost...

Thanks ... if interested I have a couple more clips at the link in my signature. Some of the newest ones are from the Brown Note D'Lite 22 that I just built myself ... my first amp build. You're welcome to listen. The gear is detailed in the song descriptions.

Mine had the Fetron until a year or so ago. With the help of Boogiebabies and a lot of work on my own, I was able to convert mine to the 12AX7. There was only a mention of the fetron in the papers and it also stated you could just replace it with the 12AX7 which isn't really true. There are...