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I can pull out a few spares I have and look for a part number. They are 50K CTS sliders.

Is the volume swelling? Make sure the effects loop jacks are clean and tight. If you start cleaning the pots you better have some lubricant or they will feel like sandpaper.

PM me and I will give you my number. Probably start with jumping the loop and. then click test.

I’ll only buy her back if it shops in the GN….

Good Catch!!!

60 or 100 ? Great tone.

My reference to the 105 at 483V DC is under load. It puts out 510V or so. The STR-440 is fine. If you have the Resources, an STR-415 and STR-416 would last for many years As the current manufacture tubes will go a few years under Normal use.

Check your PM. And yes, they are going for $10K.

The last time I saw this issue it was the 680 Ohm 2 watt resistor and the 470uf 16V power supply capacitor. They are located at the end (V4) side of the preamp board under the edge of the power supply board. Squeeze the tips of the power supply stand offs and move the power supply out of the...

Do not use anything except Tantalum capacitors!!! The C+ circuit is and uncontrolled design that is so bright You need the “Blur” of a Tantalum bypass cap. Especially the Lead circuit. Unless you prefer cheese grater top end and hearing loss above 6kHz don’t do it.

Really ?

As long as it wasn’t a half hour, you should be fine. Mesa amps are really tough. Use an extension cabinet I’m the mean time if you have one. If not, great time to Learn the art of soldering.

Original Version without mysterious symbols- The IIC+ Guide for Dummies The Chassis Codes – SR – Sixty Watt -Reverb SRG- Sixty Watt- Reverb- Graphic HR – 100 Watt-Reverb HRG- 100 Watt- Reverb-Graphic HRGX- 100 Watt-Reverb-Graphic-Export DR – Simul-Class - Reverb DRG- Simul-EQ-Reverb DRGX-...

The Mesa part number for the SUS-4 Grommets Is 402417.

The problem is that the RP11A is not patented, it’s Got a copyright on the PCB. Therefore, you can probably make One, but not sell them in the US.

It is supposed to filter a bit of top end to ground, But it is one of those parts that is hard to notice in The circuit or out.

The original finish is Penofin. Apply and dry, buff with steel Wool and repeat 3 times. Final coat, apply with cheese cloth To leave a slight sheen.

How much are you willing to spend ? That’s a rare part, but I have 4 new ones. I would call Mesa first.

Wicker was an option on any amp, Including the hardwoods. I got a Padauk head with a cloth front panel many years ago.

I would like to repost an original copy without all of the euro symbols.