Recent content by bduersch

Was cleaning out my box of neglected pedals the other day and came across the following... - Mesa overdrive / distortion pedals - Flux Drive, Throttle Box, Grid Slammer - $150 each (and a few non-Mesa distortion / OD / fuzz pedals as well...) - Diago Little Smasher - in box w/ power supply -...

Thanks! Oddly enough I've been using the Triaxis in a country band, so I've been looking for ways to clean it up - swapped some of the 12AX7's for 12AT7's and 5751's already, then thought about the FX loop trick and it seems to help a bit more. --B

In the spirit of "let me google that for myself" I did find and try to read the Triaxis schematic... if I read it correctly using the FX send instead of the main outs bypasses the V5 tube stage - I'm not sure what else is in there since I really have no EE background...

Quick question... was wiring up a Triaxis rig yesterday and was wondering... how much stuff is in the signal path between the FX send/return and main outputs? I know the output level control on the front panel is between, anything else worthy of note? (I really don't need the output level...

I guess the subject line says it all... does anybody else have a Triaxis that they're willing to part with? I'm based in Cincinnati and have $$$ ready to go via paypal. --B

I've got a Roadster 2x12 combo (if you're on this board, you probably know the specs already) with original dust cover + footswitch + casters. Excellent condition overall, works perfectly, sounds great. Was part of a multi-amp rig with a Mark V (already sold) that got completed just in time...

I guess the other thing I should've mentioned is that I'm a total Axe-FX junkie, and I can only imagine how many awkward stares I'd get showing up with it at a country gig. That definitely makes the Roadster look much safer in comparison. :) --B

So I've been fiddling with this for a few weeks now and have come to two basic conclusions... 1) The roadster IS a killer country amp in disguise: The cleans have sufficient twang factor & are nicely compressed, the raw and tweed modes add a nice amount of grit, and the leads (vintage mode)...

Thanks for the input, y'all... right now I'm the only guitar player in the lineup, so I'm handling both leads + rhythm, but I expect we'll recruit a 2nd guitarist at some point. I've been playing rock for years... country is a new project so I've been trying to build up the chops (so no...

Very cool... I've been spending a lot of time on C1 (clean) and C2 (mark I) but haven't really ventured over to C3 yet, so I'll have to check out the IIc+ mode! As for guitars, I'm mostly using G&L ASAT's... typically a Z-3 and a Special Deluxe... occasionally a PRS McCarty when I need to get...

I recently joined a country cover band (mostly modern covers, a few re-tooled classics) and am in the process of getting my rig together... I have both a Roadster and a Mark V and have been debating which would be more "country-friendly" (without unloading them to buy something else). Anyway...

I recently joined a country cover band (mostly modern covers, a few re-tooled classics) and am in the process of getting my rig together... I have both a Roadster and a Mark V and have been debating which would be more "country-friendly" (without unloading them to buy something else). Anyway...

Well, practically speaking, just because I dig something doesn't mean I can't sell it for something different... the Mesas I had at the time gave me a lot of flexibility for recording, but the Axe-FX provides a lot more flexibility and simplicity in the studio. That said, I don't have the...

Still have the Mark V... not looking to ship overseas (I'm working through an international claim with UPS this week and I'm not in the mood to repeat it... sorry) and not really looking for anything in trade (definitely don't need amps or effects, but may consider the right guitar). --B

Actually I've got a spare 9AB2A1B tank... the reverb in my LSS died, bought a replacement tank before pulling the old tank, pulled the old tank only to discover that one of the solder joints had been broken... took all of 15 seconds to repair and now it's good as new. Shoot me a PM/email if...