Mark IIC+ Reissue

[Appleridge]

Figured we needed a dedicated thread to this amp. So far I think its a great purchase. I did some tube swapping and am currently running 415's in it. I swapped the pre-amp tubes with some mesa branded suare-getters, but didnt find they were necessary. Honestly, the stock pre and power tubes are just fine. Im comparing to a IIb (+) and a III+ (green). The IIb+ is a 60 watt with the RP9C board (STR415's) and mesa square getters. The III+ has 415's, 442's and mesa square getters. Cabs are a metal grill 4x12 (V30, MC90 and 2 EVM12L), a 2X12 (V30 and MC90), and a 1X12 (V30).

The RI does well with all 3 cabs, but really shines with the 4X12. Very full gain feel and very forward in the band mix. At home it runs through the 2X12 and sounds great too. I like the 1X12 the least out of the 3. I find the 1X12 widebody a little too boomy for the RI. I compensate by dancing between the presence and 6600 slider along with the bass pot and 80 slider. I can make it sound good, but prefer the other 2 cabs with it. The clean is exceptional. I do go back and forth with the EQ engaged or disengaged with the clean. Obviously its on when lead mode is pulled. It does have a little less gain than my other two classic marks. Im running VOL 1, Treble (pulled) and Lead Drive closer to 8. My classics are closer to 7...This thing sounds nearly Identical to my III+ green IMO. The IIb+ is spongier and has more grit to the distortion....I think some refer to it as "hair". I'm a hard critic, and find the IIC+ RI to be a great version of a new, classic amp. Is it different enough from my IIb+ and III+ to justify ownership? No. I think I choose to hang on tho this because it is indeed a brand new version of an old platform that I gravitate to. That being said, it makes sense to keep (sort of). If I had to dump one, I think it would be the III+, but barely. The IIb+ is the preferred model at this point for me, but the RI is really a great platform. 8.5/10!

 

[Appleridge]

Actually, I don’t know how to make a Mark IIC+ RI discussion. Can it be added to the others? I’m sure as more of these start shipping there will be more commentary.

 

[rarebitusa]

Cabs are a metal grill 4x12 (V30, MC90 and 2 EVM12L), a 2X12 (V30 and MC90), and a 1X12 (V30).

Cool cabs... Yea I really dug the v30/MC90 pairing in my horz 2x12, but my vert v30/EVM12L 2x12 is just amazing with the IIC+... I bet that 4x12 is just huge sounding

 

[JBA]

Joining the discussion as I am an owner of the new IIC+ RI. If any members have questions, I'll be happy to try my best to answer them.

 

[adiaz7531]

Hello! Just to confirm, does the EQ/Rev footswitch bypass the 3-position EQ switch on the front of the amp? The manual didn’t make this clear. Thanks!

 

[bandit2013]

Actually, I don’t know how to make a Mark IIC+ RI discussion. Can it be added to the others? I’m sure as more of these start shipping there will be more commentary.

I believe the moderator needs to setup a folder or something like that to have its own thread or page. Where you have it is fine for now. If and when the moderator makes the change, they can move the posts to that new location.

 

[Appleridge]

Hello! Just to confirm, does the EQ/Rev footswitch bypass the 3-position EQ switch on the front of the amp? The manual didn’t make this clear. Thanks!

Good morning. After fiddling yesterday, the eq switch works differently depending on the main switch position and what channel.

EQ auto: eq still switchable w clean/always on w distortion.

Middle position: clean and distortion switchable.

EQ in: both channels always on regardless of switching.

I think this is correct!

 

[DMR]

I just got mine and I’m having an issue where the sound cuts out completely when the Lead Drive is engaged. I’ve tried with and without foot switch. I want to find out if I’m doing something wrong before getting a return authorization. Thanks.

Edit: NVM I figured it out.

 

[Appleridge]

I just got mine and I’m having an issue where the sound cuts out completely when the Lead Drive is engaged. I’ve tried with and without foot switch. I want to find out if I’m doing something wrong before getting a return authorization. Thanks.

Edit: NVM I figured it out.

What was it out of curiosity?

 

[DMR]

What was it out of curiosity?

Let’s just say it was an embarrassing “OG Kush” moment . Just inexperience with the interplay between the channels and volumes. In short, I’m an idiot.

 

[primal]

Let’s just say it was an embarrassing “OG Kush” moment . Just inexperience with the interplay between the channels and volumes. In short, I’m an idiot.

So, lead master at zero I assume? ;-)

 

[bandit2013]

I have a question about the Reissue in general. It has been 13 years since I had a Mark III DRG so my question is on the noise floor. Can anyone of you describe the sound after you turn it on and take it out of standby? I am hearing an abundant low frequency buzz or hum through the speaker. Does not sound like your typical white noise or hiss you get with moderate gain settings. Is this low frequency hum normal? This noise is absent with the Mark VII and the JP2C. It does not seem to matter how I dial it in, the hum is there regardless of control settings. Take it out of lead mode, the level drops as expected.

Also took notice to the power tubes. I can tell they were in a hurry with the tube testing as the ink was smudged. That is not the point I want to make here. What is different with the STR445 tubes, they are much longer than the one's shipped in the Mark VII. They are practically the same length as the STR448 which are rather long. All 4 tubes are practically against the reverb tank. I will try swapping them with the shorter STR445 tubes.

I also noticed the labels changed. Before the label will have general 10 AC then the color. Based on the box label: Tested by AC, Matched by AC, so I assume that is the initials of the person testing the tubes. Match group of yellow and test code of 10. The tubes that were loaded in the Reissue have something different. 0325 NV YEL. Assuming the NV is the tester's initials. YEL is the familiar match code and what is up with the 0325? The tubes that were installed in the Reissue are 1/4inch longer than the ones that I removed from the Mark VII. Wanted to see if the green color code tubes would sound better than they did with the Mark VII as I had issues with them at gig level losing characteristics and detail. I would not say muddy, just blah.

I swapped the inner pair with the stock tubes that came in my first Mark VII. They are the STR445 green. The outer pair are the original tubes shipped with the Reissue. The one on the far left is longer and about the same length as the tubes I took out. The one on the far right is just a bit longer. After I took the picture I decided to install the other pair of green STR445 tubes. I did play a bit and did notice the hum was not as strong as it was before. It is still there and sounds more normal. Not much I can say for now as I still have a hearing issue due to covid. Bummer I cannot enjoy the new amp.

 

[bandit2013]

I have a question about the Reissue in general. It has been 13 years since I had a Mark III DRG so my question is on the noise floor. Can anyone of you describe the sound after you turn it on and take it out of standby? I am hearing an abundant low frequency buzz or hum through the speaker. Does not sound like your typical white noise or hiss you get with moderate gain settings. Is this low frequency hum normal? This noise is absent with the Mark VII and the JP2C. It does not seem to matter how I dial it in, the hum is there regardless of control settings. Take it out of lead mode, the level drops as expected.

Also took notice to the power tubes. I can tell they were in a hurry with the tube testing as the ink was smudged. That is not the point I want to make here. What is different with the STR445 tubes, they are much longer than the one's shipped in the Mark VII. They are practically the same length as the STR448 which are rather long. All 4 tubes are practically against the reverb tank. I will try swapping them with the shorter STR445 tubes.

I also noticed the labels changed. Before the label will have general 10 AC then the color. Based on the box label: Tested by AC, Matched by AC, so I assume that is the initials of the person testing the tubes. Match group of yellow and test code of 10. The tubes that were loaded in the Reissue have something different. 0325 NV YEL. Assuming the NV is the tester's initials. YEL is the familiar match code and what is up with the 0325? The tubes that were installed in the Reissue are 1/4inch longer than the ones that I removed from the Mark VII. Wanted to see if the green color code tubes would sound better than they did with the Mark VII as I had issues with them at gig level losing characteristics and detail. I would not say muddy, just blah.

I swapped the inner pair with the stock tubes that came in my first Mark VII. They are the STR445 green. The outer pair are the original tubes shipped with the Reissue. The one on the far left is longer and about the same length as the tubes I took out. The one on the far right is just a bit longer. After I took the picture I decided to install the other pair of green STR445 tubes. I did play a bit and did notice the hum was not as strong as it was before. It is still there and sounds more normal. Not much I can say for now as I still have a hearing issue due to covid. Bummer I cannot enjoy the new amp.

View attachment 6125

If the noise I am hearing with this video is normal, then all is good. He even states he was using a noise gate. I can hear the hum in the video while he is talking and not playing. timeline 4:38 Thing is, I have not set volume 1 and treble to a high level as he did. The noise gets louder if I do.

 

[primal]

I have a question about the Reissue in general. It has been 13 years since I had a Mark III DRG so my question is on the noise floor. Can anyone of you describe the sound after you turn it on and take it out of standby? I am hearing an abundant low frequency buzz or hum through the speaker. Does not sound like your typical white noise or hiss you get with moderate gain settings. Is this low frequency hum normal? This noise is absent with the Mark VII and the JP2C. It does not seem to matter how I dial it in, the hum is there regardless of control settings. Take it out of lead mode, the level drops as expected.

Also took notice to the power tubes. I can tell they were in a hurry with the tube testing as the ink was smudged. That is not the point I want to make here. What is different with the STR445 tubes, they are much longer than the one's shipped in the Mark VII. They are practically the same length as the STR448 which are rather long. All 4 tubes are practically against the reverb tank. I will try swapping them with the shorter STR445 tubes.

I also noticed the labels changed. Before the label will have general 10 AC then the color. Based on the box label: Tested by AC, Matched by AC, so I assume that is the initials of the person testing the tubes. Match group of yellow and test code of 10. The tubes that were loaded in the Reissue have something different. 0325 NV YEL. Assuming the NV is the tester's initials. YEL is the familiar match code and what is up with the 0325? The tubes that were installed in the Reissue are 1/4inch longer than the ones that I removed from the Mark VII. Wanted to see if the green color code tubes would sound better than they did with the Mark VII as I had issues with them at gig level losing characteristics and detail. I would not say muddy, just blah.

I swapped the inner pair with the stock tubes that came in my first Mark VII. They are the STR445 green. The outer pair are the original tubes shipped with the Reissue. The one on the far left is longer and about the same length as the tubes I took out. The one on the far right is just a bit longer. After I took the picture I decided to install the other pair of green STR445 tubes. I did play a bit and did notice the hum was not as strong as it was before. It is still there and sounds more normal. Not much I can say for now as I still have a hearing issue due to covid. Bummer I cannot enjoy the new amp.

View attachment 6125

Curious what your settings are.

I use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-G...ocphy=9009703&hvtargid=pla-571270144718&psc=1

And at high gain settings only get white noise, no hum.
Without it, I do get a decent bit of hum

 

[bandit2013]

The last time I ran the reissue was with all equipment in the room turned off including the lights. Central air turned off too. It was during the day so I could see in the room what I was doing. Nothing but amp plugged into the Furman power strip, FX unconnected. Just a decent Mogami cable and guitar with passive pickups. This room is the quietest room for electrical noise, reason why all the gear is in here. I could get the hum eliminator and see if that works. I doubt that is the issue though. No reason not to try one though. Still, I feel it is more amp related than unconditioned line power or transient noise from something in the room.

Ebtech is no more. I believe it is now owned by Morley. They have two types, one that fits on the end of the plug and based on how it is oriented may take up two plug spaces if you are using a power strip. The other type is one that is a cable that fits in between the IEC jack on the amp and the IEC cable end.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Humno--morley-humno-noise-eliminator

This is the same thing as Ebtech.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MHumX--morley-hum-exterminator-ground-loop-hum-exterminator

They will do much of the same thing. It is just a simple EMI filter. Trying to stuff the cable into the amp my be a PITA. I should get one and see if it works.

No issues with this when it is fully connected. I have been running a 4 amplifier rig at home most of the time: BAD100, Mark VII, Mark VII , BAD100 in a quasi dual-stereo setup. (yeah, this is capable of killing my ears but not the reason I lost my hearing recently). Two Mesa switch tracks used to split signals to the Badlanders and the Mark VII amps. I may just use the tuner out to connect the one switch track or if I want to add in more to this mix, run a mono-in stereo-out Strymon Deco for stereo double tracking. The Mark VII run share a set of stereo fx units, the Badlanders also run their own stereo fx units. I have yet to encounter any noise like the Reissue by itself. I may get close if I add in the JP2C as a center channel and use the tuner out as that does not seem to have the transformer isolation circuit like the A/B circuit. Sort of wonder if there are two isolation transformers or just one. Will have to open one up and take a look inside.

This is what I am currently using.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PST8--furman-pst-8-power-station

Not sure the Ebtech Hum eliminator will work with the filtering already used inside the Furman unit. The only time I ever get any ground loop issues is if I did not have isolated channels on the ABY box used to connect more than one amp.

The Bass rig on the far right is on its own wall jack.

Will see if it can be fixed. Swapped in three different sets of preamp tubes. Once full set of Mesa 1990 Chinese 6N4-J and one full set of JJ E83CC tubes. These versions seem to have the lowest noise floor and moderate gain characteristics. Did not seem to change anything with the buzz or amp hum. I may have another idea for V1 as a current production Svetlana 12AX7 did the trick in eliminating the hum in the Mark V90. That was completely different though. That hum was evident in in the signal as well as noise floor. This is more or less noise floor issue and not influencing the actual guitar signal once amplified.

 

[adiaz7531]

My reissue is pretty quiet even in the hi gain channel. The “noisiest” thing is the built-in fan but that’s a constant with Mesa amps. I find a lot of the time, buzz, hum types noises are sometimes due to the power source and are usually solved by moving to a different line/outlet or powering through a decent power conditioner. YMMV

 

[Bugsy5150]

Mine is also quiet, just that sweet hiss!!! Also shipped with four STR445 Reds! If that matters any!!

 

[Darkstar2]

@bandit2013 I run one of these with my JP2C and Ceriatone King Kong:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MimiQ--tc-electronic-mimiq-doubler-pedal

I use one of these to switch between those two amps and a DC5 running a chorus pedal for cleans:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BigShotABYv2--radial-bigshot-aby-true-bypass-switch-pedal

All three amps are on the same wall plug/circuit, which is fed by a dedicated breaker circuit. I am getting a crazy ground loop/hum when connected to the Mimiq. It's slightly less if I take the Mimiq out of the equation, but the pedal is soo cool when run with a slight delay! Pedal is getting power from the same wall source. I am tempted to try one of those dedicated hum eliminators on the pedal's power supply... any thoughts?

 

[bandit2013]

@bandit2013 I run one of these with my JP2C and Ceriatone King Kong:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MimiQ--tc-electronic-mimiq-doubler-pedal

I use one of these to switch between those two amps and a DC5 running a chorus pedal for cleans:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BigShotABYv2--radial-bigshot-aby-true-bypass-switch-pedal

All three amps are on the same wall plug/circuit, which is fed by a dedicated breaker circuit. I am getting a crazy ground loop/hum when connected to the Mimiq. It's slightly less if I take the Mimiq out of the equation, but the pedal is soo cool when run with a slight delay! Pedal is getting power from the same wall source. I am tempted to try one of those dedicated hum eliminators on the pedal's power supply... any thoughts?

If you think the hum eliminator will work with the mimiq power source, just use the internal battery. I doubt it will change the hum issue. Most switch mode power supplies that are commonly used for small pedals are typically double isolated. Not sure if the hum eliminator will do much.

If you are looking at this unit, it is not compatible with instrument level signals. This is line level only and will not work in front of the amp. I was curious and read its description. It is in the right arena though but not going to give you what you need.
https://www.morleyproducts.com/hum-eliminator/

First time I saw Lehle has a stereo version of the P-split. Cool. I have the single version so I can run two amps with one isolated. but when running two amps with FX on the front end, you need to be able to isolate the left and right signals. This will work just like the single. I have used the single with the input and then isolated output (not using the direct output) to I could run three amps with the Mesa Switch track (tuner out is not isolated and that resulted in some issues when I tried to connect the JP2C in the two Mark VII amp configuration. The P-split helped to isolate the JP2C from the other two amps.
I think this would work and is suitable for instrument levels. Also works in the FX loops too as I have use one to split the signal to slave into another amp. What is cool about the P-split, it does not require any power to use it. It is completely passive.

https://www.lehle.com/lehle-p-split-stereo

I opened up one of the Mesa Switch track units, it does have dual transformers, one for each output A and B. I assume the Radial bigshot ABY may be similar but not all ABY switches have dual isolated output, usually just one has the isolation transformer and the other does not. I looked up the bigshot on Radial engineering website as I wanted more details. It only has one isolation transformer on output B. The isolation transformer is what provides the DC ground isolation between the two amps to cut out that hum or buzz. It also has a phase switch and ground lift to disconnect the common ground between the two amps. Sometimes if you are using two of the same amp, for example, two Badlander 100W amps, it may not matter much if the two amps are not isolated when there is a common ground. The same can be said with the TC100. It may be possible to run the Mimiq between the ABY switch and the amps. Just know once you run any FX unit between the amp and the isolated ABY switch that has stereo in and out will no longer have the dc ground isolation between the two amps. Most FX units have a common ground. The output and input grounds are not isolated between the left and right circuits. This does not seem to be an issue with FX loops with different amps if and only if they have a solid ground connection since the chassis should be earth grounded and the ground on the SEND and RETURN jacks are connected to chassis ground. That is usually safe to run to a stereo FX unit and best if the two amps have a balanced output or are the same model and type.

What I am trying to say if you have the mimiq connected between the amps and the ABY switch, expect to have that hum problem. I have the mimiq pedal too as it was suggested by another person who runs stereo TC100's. Similar to the Strymon Deco. When I have run a stereo double tracker, it is usually taking the mono guitar input, splitting to stereo and each stereo output is going to a separate Mesa Switch track that is connected to two amps on each. 2BAD and 2Mark VII. I could probably run the mimic to the 2 badlanders without needing isolation between the two amps. However, the Marks seem to be very sensitive on the inputs. This holds true to the JP2C as well. When using two Mark amps, even if they are the same, I have to have the ground lifted on the Mesa Switch track to prevent noise and ground loop hum. Nothing can be inserted in between the ABY switch and the amps unless they are separate devices. I just got done reviewing the Mimiq manual, it states you can use it in the FX loop even at line level but does not indicate if it is line level compatible. That is one location I have not tried with the Mimiq. I favor the Strymon Deco as I can set it up as a doubler, delay or even chorus. Mimiq has more of a chorus effect. Curious how it would sound in the FX loop assuming it does not get burdened by the output levels. Using any pedal including the Strymon Deco in between the ABY switcher with an isolated output and any tube amp will lose that isolation you got from the ABY switch since the device does not run fully isolated channels. I did test the input and output terminals on the Mimiq, the outer rings are all connected to chassis ground. If you must use that in front of the amp, I would recommend the Lehel P-Split and select the noisy amp (probably the JP2C) and run the mimiq output to the input and then the isolated output to the amp. That would isolate the amps input from the common ground. If using in the FX loop on both amps, with the amps plugged into their respective power, you can use a digital meter to test for circuit ground connections of both amps meaning the jack outer ring or the sleeve of a guitar cable plugged into the send jack. Test between both amps. Do not power up the amps, just test for common ground on the FX jacks. If they are earth grounded through the chassis and the ground prong on the plug it would be fair game to use the Mimiq in the FX loop of both amps. This is assuming the output levels of both amps are at the same level. If they are different, one amp will have more influence on the FX than the other. Generally why I run two identical amps when running stereo FX units. Tried it with the Mark VII and JP2C, it was not a good match. However, the Reissue and the JP2C were perfect matches on the FX levels. As I said, I have never tried the mimiq in the fx loop as it is described in the manual.

Interesting the Deco can handle line level signals so may be ok in the FX loop. However it has a boost to it so that may not be ideal for the FX loop. Thanks for bringing up the Mimiq. Been a long time since I had it out of its box.

 

[bandit2013]

My reissue is pretty quiet even in the hi gain channel. The “noisiest” thing is the built-in fan but that’s a constant with Mesa amps. I find a lot of the time, buzz, hum types noises are sometimes due to the power source and are usually solved by moving to a different line/outlet or powering through a decent power conditioner. YMMV

Good suggestion but I already have the amps in the cleanest line of the entire house. Also using a power conditioner but does not always fix noisy amps if they are inherently noisy. Was that not the common thing with the IIC+? Funny I am not getting that hiss but low level buzz. Just weird. I will mess around with the amp a bit further when my hearing comes back. Suffering from secondary issue due to covid and lost most of my hearing. I can hear but not the full frequency range to enjoy the amp or any amp.