triaxis noob questions..

[ljbarbeau]

1. my Triaxis is serial # T-711* and I have a Tx-4 board inside. I've done some research on the fat mod. Some ppl says that when serial is higher then 5200 its fat moded and some other talk about 8000s... and I also seen ppl mentioning Tx-5 board as the fat mod one. so is mine fat mod or not?

2. also I'm wondering is it safe to let the power button in the back always on and control on/off via my Furman main switch?
(I'd do the same with my 2:90 if safe. but not the standby one just main power)

3. I ve seen a chart for all the Sysex for the Triaxis. Is there a way to control the 4 switch via my GCP?

4. Id like to put an permanent on/off switch on the half power on the half jack on my 2:90. that way when I'm practicing alone I don't wake the neighbours for nothing. what is the 1/4 switch expecting? On = tip & ground joined together?

5. last any1 knows of a mac editor?

Luigi

 

[lento]

Here is some info I found on the Yahoo Triaxis website:


" Serial #'s below 5200 have Lead 1 “Recto Mod” (board TX04 added) and above 5200 have "Fat Mod".

The most current software version for TriAxis is 2.0. Serial #'s above 1700 are version 2.0. When you power on TriAxis the panel lights will flash a "1" for Version 1 or "2" for Version 2.
If you’ve TriAxis and are still not sure if yours is with or w/o “Fat Mod” here’s how to find out: restore your factory presets (pg. 5 in the manual), then set your TriAxis on Factory Preset #01:

Lead 1 Red Preset # Gain Tre Mid Bass Lead1 Lead2 Master Pres. D.Voice
w/o 01 6.0 5.0 7.0 7.0 6.0 - 5.0 5.0 0.0 British Shred
w/ Fat Mod 01 6.0 6.5 7.5 8.0 5.5 - 4.5 5.0 0.0 Rectifier

w/ Fat Mod 10 6.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 2.0 - 5.5 2.0 0.0
EDIT - sorry, these have become scrambled from the pasting !

From Version 1 to Version 2 the differences seem to be:

Treble Mid Bass Lead1 Master
+1.5 +1.0 +1.0 –0.5 -0.5



Actually there are 4 TriAxis versions:
- v1.0 original ‘British Shred’, w/o CC s.n. <= 1700
- v2.0 ‘Recto Vintage’ (w/o “Fat Mod”), with Lead 1 Red Recto board and CC 1701 <= s.n. <= 5200
- v2.01 ‘Recto Vintage’ with a modified Lead 1 Red (“Fat Mod”), Recto board and CC 5201 <= s.n. <= ???
- v3.0 ‘Classic Boogie Lead’ (LoneStar) w/o Lead 1 Red Recto board, only CC ??? <= s.n. "

Regarding the panel flashing the version "1" or "2", I've never noticed this - just a very quick flash of the last preset used, as far as I can tell.

As far as leaving the Triaxix permanently on, and then powering up from the Power conditioner, this is what I do without any problems.
However, I always power-up the 2:90 manually.

Hope this helps
Lyn

 

[ljbarbeau]

I dont really feel like delting my 20 first preset just to make sure. Im pretty sure its non fat anyway.

No one knows the answer for the switch thing?

thx for the power up answer tho. thats what ill do from now on..

 

[ando]

I dont really feel like delting my 20 first preset just to make sure. Im pretty sure its non fat anyway.

No one knows the answer for the switch thing?

thx for the power up answer tho. thats what ill do from now on..

Considering the effort that went into the answer, you don't seem that grateful... :?

 

[ljbarbeau]

sorry u feel that way that wasnt intended but I already knew all that information. :/

But the tip about the power button is REALLY appreciated this can actually save my triaxis...

Knowing if my triaxis is non-fat modded wont even change its sound its just for curiosity. Im much more interested in all the other questions I asked then this one. But in the end I guess Ill end up doing what u said. I was sorta expecting some1 would jump in and say ofc it is, u have tx-4 board! anyway dont think I didnt appreciate your help..


Luigi

 

[crane]

There's a way to know if the TX4 board is fat-modded or not by having a look at the resistors/capacitors installed.

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=472241

"To reverse "Fat Mod" you’ve to add 4 caps and 4 resistors and change 2 resistors.

1) Add 4 resistors:
R9 :120 KOhm
R44 : 33 KOhm
R45 : 330 KOhm
R46 : 82 KOhm

2) Add 4 disc. caps:
C5, C6 & C12 : 0.001 µF
C22 : 47 pF

3) Change these 2 resistors near the center of the board and labelled MID & BASS. Replace them with:
R33 (MID) : 1 MOhm
R34 (BASS) : 10 Kohm"

 

[Danimal]

2. also I'm wondering is it safe to let the power button in the back always on and control on/off via my Furman main switch?
(I'd do the same with my 2:90 if safe. but not the standby one just main power)

That's how I've always run my rack and never seen any ill effects from it.