Sylvania 12AX7

[domct203]

Hi guys,

I'm looking to try some Sylvanias and I have a Q,

What's the difference between these tubes:

Anything other than ink color?

Also, any preference between black-plate/grey-plate for rock & metal in a Roadster?

Thanks,
Dom

 

[Timbre Wolf]

other than ink color?

:shock: that was going to be my reply

Nothing much, besides that.

- Thom

 

[MrMarkIII]

They all sound different, even identical-looking ones.
Stick 'em in V1 (the tube closest to the input jack), and check the sound to see if it's to your liking. V1 has the most effect on the sound, with subsequent tubes (V2, V3, V4, etc.) affecting the gain stages down the line.

 

[domct203]

other than ink color?

:shock: that was going to be my reply

Nothing much, besides that.

- Thom

Thanks Thom. How about the grey vs. black plates? Any opinions?

I'm not looking for any peticular quality (other than for playing Rock/Metal), I'm just rollin'. I've got a couple Matsushita's on the way (last one I had was a dud, went crackling in about 3 months) and I'm thinking of trying some Sylvanias also. My RFT, GE and Mullards are still going strong, and I'm looking forward to mixing it up a bit.

Thanks,
Dom

 

[Timbre Wolf]

How about the grey vs. black plates? Any opinions?

Yeah - comparing long-plate to long-plate, black and gray Sylvanias differ quite a bit. The early '50s long black-plate is very, very clear, bright, and breaks up later than most 12AX7; quite snappy and special. It was replaced by their short black-plate in '55/'56, which breaks up quite a bit more, has fatter lows and bright clear highs. The long gray plate, by comparison with either black plate, is much more compressed, has much less clarity, and breaks up sooner (though not as early as the short black and gray plate Sylvania 12AX7 that preceded it); pretty ho-hum character, in my book.

- Thom

 

[domct203]

Thanks Thom, that's the kind of info I was looking for.

Dom

 

[domct203]

Whoo Hoo !!

1951 Sylvania 12AX7 17MM Black Plates Square Getter

Should be here in a week or so, can't wait to try this puppy in V1 of my Roadster!

Thanks again for the guidence Thom!

Dom

 

[Timbre Wolf]

Whoo Hoo !!

1951 Sylvania 12AX7 17MM Black Plates Square Getter

Should be here in a week or so, can't wait to try this puppy in V1 of my Roadster!

Thanks again for the guidence Thom!

Dom

Yeah - that's the kind! I sincerely hope it is noise/microphonics-free in V1, because if it is, it will be a revelation in sound for you. Best of luck.

- Thom

 

[212Mavguy]

Those tend to be a bit "ringy" microphonic as a rule. I have nearly a dozen, they are wonderful sounding.

For microphonic preamp tubes I got some one inch diameter heatshrink tubing, cut it to length to clear the tube socket skirt on the bottom and run it all the way up the side of the bottle, even a bit toward the top is good, if the retainer springs hit the heatshrink instead of glass that helps reduce microphonic behavior. Two layers, and if the tube retainer does not fit over the wrapped tube any more, no big deal, just stick on a third layer! As the tube runs it slowly heats up the heatshrink, after about 15 minutes that material is much softer and more rubbery, an ideal characteristic for damping unwanted vibration.

Another interesting vintage Sylvania that is wonderful sounding clean or dirty is the gold brand 12at7wa, amazingly musical, not yet stupid expensive, I like it better in a v1 type of spot than a cv4024 Mullard. :shock: There are two different builds of this tube, each type differs in plate construction and number of micas, either are fantastic. Peace.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

For microphonic preamp tubes I got some one inch diameter heatshrink tubing, cut it to length to clear the tube socket skirt on the bottom and run it all the way up the side of the bottle, even a bit toward the top is good, if the retainer springs hit the heatshrink instead of glass that helps reduce microphonic behavior. Two layers, and if the tube retainer does not fit over the wrapped tube any more, no big deal, just stick on a third layer! As the tube runs it slowly heats up the heatshrink, after about 15 minutes that material is much softer and more rubbery, an ideal characteristic for damping unwanted vibration.

:shock: But you're covering the logo!! According to many tube aficionados, that's where at least half the value lies. :roll:

Another interesting vintage Sylvania that is wonderful sounding clean or dirty is the gold brand 12at7wa, amazingly musical, not yet stupid expensive, I like it better in a v1 type of spot than a cv4024 Mullard. :shock: There are two different builds of this tube, each type differs in plate construction and number of micas, either are fantastic. Peace.

Black-plate? Seems it would be...

How are the lows, in your experience, compared to the late-production Mullard CV4024? The Sylvanias I've tried are not as pronounced, nor as fluid as the CV4024. The black-plate Sylvanias I've tried are very bright, in fact, and very, very clear and lively. The gray-plate Sylvanias I have are not as clear, but still very respectable. Neither is as fluid feeling as the CV4024, but they're a fantastic choice for a different character, in my opinion.

Cheers!

- Thom

 

[212Mavguy]

These at7's have gray plates. They have more bottom than the Syl BP at7's. Very full balanced, from bottom to top, musical, and they ooze harmonics well. In this particular amp the cv4024 was sweet as well, but the bottom was a tad overdone with the cab I was using.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

These at7's have gray plates. They have more bottom than the Syl BP at7's. Very full balanced, from bottom to top, musical, and they ooze harmonics well. In this particular amp the cv4024 was sweet as well, but the bottom was a tad overdone with the cab I was using.

Thanks! Your experience with the gray-plates seems like mine. I have also experienced the corpulent cab syndrome, and, if that's the case, would also recommend using another 12AT7 besides the CV4024. 8)

- T

 

[domct203]

Thanks so much guys, your wisdom is sincerely appreciated. You've both helped me quite often (both directly and in-directly) with my venture into NOS/VOS tubes, and I find your impressions and opinions very accurate and helpful.

I'm currently running a Mullard CV2024 as my reverb driver and found it quite warm and smooth. It is my favorite there right now, but damn, now the bug bites with a gold brand 12at7wa fever spiking :shock:

Dom

 

[domct203]

Another interesting vintage Sylvania that is wonderful sounding clean or dirty is the gold brand 12at7wa, amazingly musical, not yet stupid expensive, I like it better in a v1 type of spot than a cv4024 Mullard. :shock: There are two different builds of this tube, each type differs in plate construction and number of micas, either are fantastic. Peace.

Yea, I couldn't pass it up :!:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360143895485

It's going to be a great weekend

Dom

 

[212Mavguy]

Excellent! The triple mica version ones I have that look like yours are very quiet for microphonics. Used one of mine in the Frank-en-Champ for a blues jam last night. Sounded great in the mix.

 

[LerxstLee]

How about the grey vs. black plates? Any opinions?

Yeah - comparing long-plate to long-plate, black and gray Sylvanias differ quite a bit. The early '50s long black-plate is very, very clear, bright, and breaks up later than most 12AX7; quite snappy and special. It was replaced by their short black-plate in '55/'56, which breaks up quite a bit more, has fatter lows and bright clear highs. The long gray plate, by comparison with either black plate, is much more compressed, has much less clarity, and breaks up sooner (though not as early as the short black and gray plate Sylvania 12AX7 that preceded it); pretty ho-hum character, in my book.

- Thom

For whatever reason I "myself" find Sylvania'a in general to have a pleasing sound to me.
I have TeleFs, Mullards,rca,ge's , I still grab that sylvania and now I leave it V1 for me.