Simple Mod For More Reliable Rectifier Tubes

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mansfieldguitars

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I see alot of amps and recieve alot of phone calls from people wanting to know why their amps are blowing fuses. I would say the majority of the time it's due to shorted rectifier tubes. These tubes tend to take alot of abuse, more so than your other tubes and I'll explain why as well as show you a very simple and inexpensive way to greatly increase the reliablility and the life of your rectifier tubes. The voltages I'm going to use here are for example only but you'll get the idea. All amps will produce different voltages. Ok.... here goes.

Most of us know the rectifier tubes function is to take the AC current from your wall and convert (rectify) it into DC current. This is considered full wave rectification since both cycles of the AC current is being used. The tube is a twin diode meaning it's 2 tubes in one. Your Rectifier series amps use two of these tubes.

Your power transformer has a lead attached to each end of it's coil and a center tap that goes to ground. Each end of the coil goes to one of the plates in your rectifier tube. The cathode of the rectifier tube is where AC current enters the tube. Since AC current flows in both directions the plates change back and forth from positive to negative. Now this is where the problems come in. When one plate is positive, the other is negative. The problem that arises here is something called PIV (peak inverse voltage).

Lets just say for argument sake that your power transformer has 300 volts from each end of the coil to the center tap. Will also say that when in use the cathode of the rectifer tube may have 500 volts. By using these numbers we can determine that when the tube is conducting with 500 volts positive on the cathode and 300 volts positive on one of the plates there is only a 200 volt difference. Now lets look at the other plate that is not conducting. It will have a negative 300 volts on it leaving the difference in potential between itself and the cathode at 800 volts. This really increases the risk of arcing inside the tube and could reduce the life of the tube.

What we can do to avoid this is simply install a diode in series from each plate to the lead on the transformer. I like to use 1N5399 diodes. They are rated at 1000 PIV at 1.5 amps. To install you simply discontect the transformer leads on the rectifier tube sockest and install these diodes in series with the diode's cathode toward the tube socket and the transformer wire on the diode's anode.

What this will do since diodes are like check valves and only conduct in 1 direction is this: when one plate has 300 volts positive on it, instead of the other plate having 300 volts negative, it will have 0 volts since the diode stops the plate from seeing that negative 300 volts. Now the tube will only see a 500 volt difference in potential instead of 800 volts. This greatly reduces the risk of arcing inside the tube and increases the life of the tube as well.

Another really cool feature about this mod is if your playing on stage in front of hundred of screaming fans and your rectifier decides to short cathode to plate the amp will still work since you have installed a series solid state rectifier. How is that for reliability!!!!!

So you see for about 2 dollars and 15 to 20 minutes of time you can beef up your rectifier circuit for better safety and reliability and these diodes in no way effect the sound or sag of the tubes.
 
This is such a simple and elegant solution that it really bugs me that...

1 - I never thought of it myself :)

and

2 - that, given the cost of two high-voltage diodes, tube amp manufacturers do not fit them as stock. *Especially* as the failure rate of cheap modern rectifier tubes is large enough to make them the single most common cause of trouble with a lot of amps, including warranty returns.


But this bit: "Another really cool feature about this mod is if your playing on stage in front of hundred of screaming fans and your rectifier decides to short cathode to plate the amp will still work since you have installed a series solid state rectifier. How is that for reliability!!!!!" is the best bit. Auto-compensation for component failure... now *that* is beautiful. I've always known that if my Tremoverb blows a rectifier tube, I can flip to solid-state and get it going again (since unlike the 3-channel Rectifiers, the 2-channels fully disconnect the tubes) but you still have to change the fuse.
 
could I use a 1N5403 instead? I just have these laying around. thanks for the info
 
:shock: Great Idea! I will do this as I had a rectifier tube go bad in my heartbreaker a while back and switching to the silicon rectifier position would not work as there was still a dead short in the circuit - fuse still blew. Drove me nuts until I found the culprit (rectifier tube).

thanks for the info.

ty
 
You certainly can use the 1N5403's. There are just a 3.0 amp version which = overbuilding which = greater reliability. You can get away with the 1N4007 which is the same in a 1.0 amp version but things can get hot around there and can drop the piv rating down to a point where I would not trust it. I like to use any diode rated for 1000 piv or better with at least a 1.5 amp rating.

I'm glad to see people getting use out of this info.

I assume the reason most amp builders don't do it is because overbuilding cuts into their profits yet what I could never understand is It's so inexpensive why would you not do it. I install this on most of my customers amps.

Thanks
John
 
mansfieldguitars said:
You certainly can use the 1N5403's. There are just a 3.0 amp version which = overbuilding which = greater reliability. You can get away with the 1N4007 which is the same in a 1.0 amp version but things can get hot around there and can drop the piv rating down to a point where I would not trust it. I like to use any diode rated for 1000 piv or better with at least a 1.5 amp rating.

I'm glad to see people getting use out of this info.

I assume the reason most amp builders don't do it is because overbuilding cuts into their profits yet what I could never understand is It's so inexpensive why would you not do it. I install this on most of my customers amps.

Thanks
John

There are two rec tubes in my TOV, so you need four diodes, right? Thanks again for all the time and help on this stuff.
 
Surely you still only need two diodes for a Dual Rectifier (or Tremoverb), since the two tubes are just in parallel? If one shorts, it bypasses the other one anyway.
 
Your right in that they are wired in parallel and I suppose you could get away with just two diodes but I still prefer to use 2 per tube. My reasoning is with 2 tubes you have double the current flowing than with just one. Also I like to mount these diodes right on the tube socket using the unused pins. If you really wanted to use just 2 diodes you woud have to double the rating of the diodes.
 
I would use the unused tube pins too - I hate to attach components at one end only and a flying lead at the other, it's bad practice - but the two sockets in a Dual Rectifier are wired up using parallel busbars through all 8 pins so there are no unused pins!

This caught me out a while back when I used one of my DIY plug-in testers, which uses the unused pin 1 in the tube base as a connection point, so I can put a current meter in series with the rectifier - unfortunately it's shorted to pin 8 by the wiring on the socket so at first I couldn't work out why I was getting no current reading even though the amp was working...! :)

You're right about building in excess current capability too, it increases reliability even more for no penalty other than the cost of two more diodes. I was just trying to think of a failure mode in which two diodes might not cover it where four would, but I don't think that would happen.
 
sorry guys, you have me a little confused? I haven't been able to, open up my TOV but, if I use two then I have to use 1N5403,(3 amp) right? Thanks for any help on this.
 
A similar method would be the Port Arthur mod, where 4 diodes and a 10 watt resistor are used to rectify the AC current, which then passes through the rectifier tube. Reduces the stress on the rec tube, but allows the tone and sag.
 

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