I just picked up my second MarkIIB. I really loved the first one I had and I have no idea why I sold it. I recently picked up another one. It's an HG with no reverb. This on seems to have some minor problems. My other one had a lot of Gain and low end and with my TS9 as a clean boost it got some of the best metal tone I've ever heard. My current one is thin, bright doesn't have a lot of gain and is muddy. First off the treble doesn't have any effect on the lead channel(pot or switch). The bass pot has very little also. I used to keep the bass on 1 on my old one and that was plenty. When I pull the lead master I don't get the usual gain boost. I can wiggle the knob and make the boost cut in and out so I'm pretty sure the pot is bad. I just ordered new power supply caps, but I'm sure more parts are about to make my list. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Need help with my sick MarkIIB....
- Thread starter MR MARCUS
- Start date
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Markedman
Well-known member
My advice is to send it to Boogie and get it fixed properly. You'll be happier knowing everything is as good as it gets than wondering if this or that should be replaced, spending years thinking "what if?" If your thing is tinkering with amps and you know what you're doing, dive in, smile, and have at it, otherwise I'd leave it to someone who's thing is repairing amps for a living. If you get frustrated, you'll end up doing more damage to the amp. To me it's a no-brainer.
Markedman said:
I do tinker and repair my own amps and sometimes for others. I have also built two hot rodded Plexis. With shipping coast to coast costing roughly $220(to and from) plus the repair cost it seems like a no brainier to try it myself. I would also want the loop mod done so that would cost me even more. I already have it sounding better. Local supplier had 250k log pot with push pull switch in stock.
McBarry
Well-known member
Besides the physical indication of a faulty pot, I'm wondering if your losing signal elsewhere in the tone circuit..
Some tracing with a CRO or DMM would be helpful, but also a thorough visual.
Sounds fairly easy but as you prolly know, be careful - it's tight in there especially around the left of V1a.
Dave
Some tracing with a CRO or DMM would be helpful, but also a thorough visual.
Sounds fairly easy but as you prolly know, be careful - it's tight in there especially around the left of V1a.
Dave
I say it all the time,any amp that age needs new filter caps.There are so many different symptoms that are caused by weak/bad/old caps that it is almost a "shotgun" type repair.The power supply is the heart and soul of an amp.Once you know they are up to snuff,any further trouble shooting is that much easier,usually just the caps will fix what ails it.MR MARCUS said:
McBarry
Well-known member
The prev post from Stokes should be stickied somewhere...
For the life of me, I don't get why folks opt to leave old, likely dried caps insitu.
Yes, it does keep originality, sure.
But what about changing them, recording that inside the chassis, and KEEP the removed ones for originality..
Congrats on the "new amp"...
Of my little hoard, I keep coming back to my 60w IIB.
The 100w+ GEQ is a tad heavier, the IIA is a bit emotionally important to me to gig constantly, and the Mk1 only comes out for gigs occasionally also.
Call me whatever, that's they way it rolls in my house..
Dave
For the life of me, I don't get why folks opt to leave old, likely dried caps insitu.
Yes, it does keep originality, sure.
But what about changing them, recording that inside the chassis, and KEEP the removed ones for originality..
Congrats on the "new amp"...
Of my little hoard, I keep coming back to my 60w IIB.
The 100w+ GEQ is a tad heavier, the IIA is a bit emotionally important to me to gig constantly, and the Mk1 only comes out for gigs occasionally also.
Call me whatever, that's they way it rolls in my house..
Dave
