MJ Slaughter said:
Sorry I wasn't clear with my initial post. The hum does not come through the speakers when in standby. I only hear hum coming off the chassis. When out of standby the same cycle hum is present through the speakers.
Hum was present before cap job. That's one reason I did it plus the amp is old and I just got it without knowing it's history. Transformers appear tight.
How do you check ground connections without resoldering everything? My experiance has been that just because it looks right doesn't mean that it is.
On a Boogie I always troubleshoot from the power section first
Can you confirm if the Bias Supply filter caps were changed as well?
Hum like you are describing, in Standby, but not audible through the OT, but only audibly from the tranny itself, is very easy to isolate. Something is pulling down one of the secondaries on your power transformer, and is causing a hum. By process of elimination you should be able to track it down.
My method for this type of hum, which I've verified to be coming from the power transformer, is to pull the power tubes, then I unsolder the secondary leads section by section. Bias supply lead first, turn amp back on, hum still present, turn amp off, resolder bias lead back on, move to the HT leads(pair of red ones), etc...
Once you found the offending secondary, then you troubleshoot that section alone. Hum ironically is the easiest thing to isolate. You just have to be methodical and patient.
Bias Supply
HT
Filaments
Relay Supply
Once you've found which area is causing the hum you move over to the passive components and start checking. Check grounds with a Multi Meter set to continuity. One tip to to the chassis, the other to the NEGATIVE side of the caps (cept' for the bias caps which have the positive going to ground). I'll warn you as I'm sure you know, some of those caps are charged with the full B+ so make sure to steer clear of the positive side of the caps. If you feel the least bit uncomfortable checking around the chassis, then take it to a tech.
After checking continuity then switch your multimeter over to resistance, lowest setting, and check the same negative ends of the caps to ground, as well as
anything else that's going to ground. You should have almost zero ohms reading.
If I was a betting man I'd say the bias supply electrolytics caps weren't changed.