There's something you can do to greatly improve these modern reverb tanks.
In the old ones, the wires from the RCA jacks to the transducers went directly into the coil. These almost never break, except at the RCA jack connections, where they are easy to re-solder.
But some years ago, the design was changed so that the transducer has two pins on it, to which the coil wires are soldered, and which accepts a nylon push-connector with the wires to the RCA jack. The problem is, the push-connector has enough mass that with the constant jiggling of the suspended reverb assembly it will break the coil wires where they are soldered to the pins. This can sometimes be repaired but it's *very* difficult. Also the push-connector itself relies on pressure contact to the wire, not soldering (as well as the contact between the connector and the pin) and can make a bad contact, which also stops the tank working. These two failures account for at least 90% of the modern reverb tank failures I see.
What to do is simply to pull the push-connector off the pins, cut it off the wires, and solder the ends of the wires straight to the pins, which eliminates the vibrating mass and four metal-to-metal contact points. On customers' amps I normally only do this if the reverb tank has failed (since it's more work and cost to pull the tank and do it), but on my own amps I've done it preventatively as well, having seen so many fail in the field.
Push connectors are the bane of modern electronics design - they do sometimes aid servicing, but they are always an inherent cause of unreliability in themselves so it's not (IMO) a good trade-off. There are many cases like this where they are of no benefit whatever except to cheapen manufacture.
