Mark Iv filter caps

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shredding

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Hi,
ARe the filter caps the 2 220uF by the power cord? there are 3 blue ones also on the main board. I guess i don't have to change those? Thanks!
 
All of those are filter caps and should be changed if doing a cap job.It is also advisable to change the other smaller electrolytics as well.
 
stokes said:
All of those are filter caps and should be changed if doing a cap job.It is also advisable to change the other smaller electrolytics as well.

Sorry i didn't quite get that. Does it mean the 3 littles on the main board are also filter caps? Or are they electrolytic capacitors. Those on the main board are really hard to reach since all the soldering points are under the PCB. I can't get the PCB out without desolder a lot of wires.
 
The blue ones on the main board I wouldnt describe as "little".They are about the size of a "C" cell battery.Those are 30uf/500v's.They as well as the 220uf/350v's are the filter caps.The smaller ones I was referring to are the ones that are about one half to three quarters of an inch.There are two on the board with the 220uf's,these are the bias supply caps and should be changed.There are also a couple of small (I forget offhand how many,maybe two) 220uf's that are for the EQ supply,also change them.When changing caps on PC boards,I usually cut the old leads and leave about a half inch of lead on the board,when installing the new ones you can then put a heat sink on the wire on the board,so you dont heat anything in the board itself.Also put a heat sink on the new caps lead so you dont over heat the cap itself.Be very careful about the orientation of the + and - leads,if you accidentally reverse them,the cap will explode when the amp is fired up.It is also recommended to "form" the new caps when or before they are installed.There are some people who will tell you it isnt needed,and indeed,if you dont,the new caps will work,but they wont be as good or last as long as caps that are properly formed.To form caps you need a variac or a current limiter,the variac being the preferred method.I believe Kendrick sells "pre-formed" caps,at least they used to,but they are/were expensive.I use F&T brand for the 220uf/300v's for the main caps and Sprague for the 30uf/500v's for the others.Again,there are many people who will tell you there isnt a difference,but in my experience there is.For the smaller,lower voltage bias and other caps you can use whatever you can find.NOW FOR THE WARNING-IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS YOURSELF,BE AWARE THAT THESE COMPONENTS CAN HOLD VOLTAGES THAT CAN BE LETHAL,EVEN WITH THE AMP OFF AND UNPLUGGED.IF YOU ARENT SURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING,LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE WHO DOES.
 
Thanks for your detailed replay, stokes. It really helps.

So instead of getting to the other side of PCB, you just leave 1/2 inch of leads and solder your cap onto those leads. that's totally a good idea.
 
Yeah,you can twist the lead of the new cap to the lead left on the board and solder them together.Be sure to use an alligator clip or heat sink on the lead between the solder point and the board as well as one between the cap and the solder point.
 

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