Improving the Studio .22 clean tone

[Wolfchild]

Any tips on how to improve the clean channel on my Studio .22?
Could use a little more chime/jangle...
Have tried numerous speakers (eminence, EV in a thiele etc.), but to no avail, absolutely love the lead channel though!!!

Thanks in advance,

W

 

[Bobby Marshall]

Any tips on how to improve the clean channel on my Studio .22?
Could use a little more chime/jangle...
Have tried numerous speakers (eminence, EV in a thiele etc.), but to no avail, absolutely love the lead channel though!!!

Thanks in advance,

W

The best thing you can do is get a really good 12AX7 for the V1 position.

The least expensive tube I have found for this is the reissue TungSol 12AX7. Under $20 last I checked and worked wonders in my Studio Pre.

 

[O==00==O]

That is the area I have spent the most time on making improvements to my Studio Caliber. V1 is the input buffer for both channels, and V4 is all about the Rhythm channel. Here is what I have determined:

v1 - a NOS GE 5751
V4 - a NOS GE 5751 (DON'T use a Philips 5751!!! You've been warned)

Then I have completely different breeds of tubes in the Lead channel sockets. For the V6 (phase splitter) there's a 12AT7 in mine, but that doesn't make as much of an improvement as the GE 5751s.

 

[selectortone]

V1 is only switched in when lead mode is engaged.

V2 is the first tube in the chain in clean mode.

 

[O==00==O]

V1 is only switched in when lead mode is engaged.

V2 is the first tube in the chain in clean mode.

Not according to the Mesa Engineering Diagram I was sent by Michael Taylor at Mesa. It also goes against logic. The first tube is always tied to the input. However, the diagram is for a DC2, it does correspond to my "Studio Caliber". Maybe the Studio .22 is slightly different, but that goes against common design.

 

[>Photi G<]

Selector is right. V1 is used for the Lead mode only. The .22's preamp gain circuit is kinda set up like the Mark I, or SOB, where you need to be plugged into input 1, so that the signal passes through an extra gain stage before it reaches the tone stack, except the Studio .22 has channel switching. So putting in a good tube in V2 is what you need. Also, try turning the Presence up a bit, and if they're due, change out the power tubes. Also, make sure you don't have any crappy pedals in the FX Loop, they tend to cut out high end in a Serial configuration.

 

[tonejam]

I beg to differ.
I run a 12ay7 in V1 of my Studio22+. While the main effect of this is on the lead mode (it cuts the gain down), it DOES also effect the clean mode, you have to turn the pre-amp volume up higher to get the same amount of gain.
This gives a bit more chime and jangle, to my ears. Speaking of chime, have you tried a Weber Blue Dog speaker?

 

[Monsta-Tone]

V1 is only for Lead mode. If the AY7 affects your Clean tones, then it may be due to the amount of current draw that an AY7 has over an AX7. Or, you may have bad LDR's and the channel is not switching out completely.


V1 is the only tube that is not used by both channels on the .22's.

The Studio Caliber is more like a DC series. It and the DC-2 are very different from the .22's.
Pretty much, anything you do the the clean will affect the lead.
If you are not maxing the gain out on the lead channel, then you have some breathing room. A lower gain tube in V2 will make the cleans sound better. The only thing that might need to be done with the lead channel is turn up the gain a little more.

 

[O==00==O]

Monsta-Tone - I've been wondering about just what was different between the .22 and Studio Cal. So, that's cool.

Still, I recommend a GE 5751 (lower gain, but more closely related to a 12AX7 in the other specs than a 12AT7 or 12AY7.

Another point, chime is not just about the presence loop or tube selection. Your pickups can play a role too.

 

[Monsta-Tone]

Yeah, I really don't like AT7's for preamp sections. They are fine for PI or Reverb slots, but not for gain stages in my amp.
I do really like an AY7 in my Heartbreaker though! I never would have tried it, but the amp came with it.

Don't forget speaker selection for chime!
My Maverick just sounded plain with the stock C-90. I swapped it out for a Heritage 30 from the 80's and the amp really came to life.
I love the C-90 in a higher powered amp, but it seems to me that a Heritage 30 or Mojotone BV30H is the perfect speaker for an EL-84 powered amp.

Pickups, pick, style, strings, cables, tubes, speaker, everything affects your tone.
I used to hate my tone. No matter what I did, I just couldn't figure out why my cleans were way too aggressive. I stopped using EMG's and Vintage 30's and my cleans have just been wonderful since then. :mrgreen: Of course it helps to be just crazy enough to dissect your amp on a whim and make it sound the way you want! :mrgreen:

 

[O==00==O]

The Black Shadow speaker that came in my Studio Caliber had NO TREBLE. The Treble control had no affect... not sure what someone did to it, but I ordered a custom Weber British Ceramic 1230-55 with light doping. It is a GREAT speaker and gave me the sounds that I wanted (after doing a lot of research). It's sooo smooth and organic sounding. Remember - AlNiCo does the opposite to your sound in a speaker that it does in pickups. And Ceramic speakers are much more wallet friendly.

 

[selectortone]

I have a 12AY7 in the V1 position in my Studio .22+ and it works very well.

I also did the Lead Drive mod which is very worthwhile. And I changed the V1/V2 interstage coupling cap C5 from .001uF to .022uF which improved the bass response a lot in the lead mode, which I found a bit to too thin and harsh sounding before.

The DC2 has a very different architecture with two completely separate preamps. I have a DC5 (similar architecture just more powerful power amp) and it's my favourite amp of all time.

 

[Bob Anthony]

I also really like the 12AY7 in V1-It sings rather than barks now and cleans up nicely when I roll back the guitar volume. There's still a volume jump between the channels, but overall I like the tone better.