It is not uncommon to get a noisy tube. I have had a few that just make pops with static then it goes away only to return (depending on what channel I am using). I have had a few Mesa tubes do this as well as other brands too. Hiss on the other hand is similar but may be a factor of gain of the tube. Tubes will make noise but there are some that will be quiet. I generally found the Mesa branded JJ tubes to be more prone for the hiss or crackle + pop issue. Other tubes I have used generally are prone to low frequency hum. A mild hiss I can tolerate but a low hum or buzz is not fun.
You should not have to pull the chassis to change a preamp tube. It can be difficult getting the shield off of V1 and getting it back in place. The shorter shield is much easier than the long one. You can swap one of the short shields for the long one ( I had damaged the aluminum bumps on the long shield so I bought a quantity of the short shields from Mesa) Also you need to pull two or three of the power tubes to gain easy access to the preamp tubes. You can leave the rectifier in place. The only issue with finding the noisy tube with everything in place, time to wait for the power tubes to cool down. Best not to jar them when they are hot, also prevents getting burned. When I am in a rush I use an insulated glove to remove one of the power tubes if I need to just access V1. Note: if you remove the power tubes, keep them in order so you can return them to the proper spot. You could also pull the inner pair and set them aside from the others that way the match pair stays together.
When I do tube rolling or debug (finding the noisy tube) I will generally pull the chassis out. If you do it, you need to loosen the support bolt under the power transformer first before removing the mounting bolts on top of the amp. Hint, if you leave the power tubes in place, keep the protective cage in place. Perhaps for the first time attempt, it would be best to remove the power tubes so they do not get broken. Keep in mind that the rectifier tube is closer to the power input transformer and the line in plug. Take a picture of the back of the amp with the tubes in place for reference if needed. Last thing you would want to do is install the rectifier in the wrong socket.
If you have a combo, not to worry, preamp tube are easy to access so removal of the chassis is not necessary. Installing the chassis in a combo is more difficult than the head but it is the same process due to the larger cavity of the comob, do not let go of the chassis or it may drop on you. Note, the amp chassis is the bulk of the weight of the amp. If you attempt, remember to remove the reverb cables before sliding the amp chassis fully out.