Many or even most tube guitar amps run the tubes at over the maximum design spec for voltage, power dissipation or both. Check the ratings for 6L6s and 6V6s especially and it may surprise you! But usually it's not a problem since the specs are *minimum* ratings and most tubes - particularly old-production ones - comfortably exceed them.
These are a little high, but it's not quite that simple, especially for V3B. It's a cathode follower, and the cathode voltage is 220V, which makes the *plate-to-cathode* voltage (which is what the maximum rating really applies to) only about 200V, which is well within the rating. But this does bring in another problem, which is that the cathode-to-filament voltage is now very high. This is a real problem with some modern-production 12AX7s - Sovteks especially in my experience - which aren't made to the correct original spec and will often leak current (and sound bad) or fail outright in these positions.
There are even worse examples if you look at some of the amps which use 12AX7s and 12AT7s as reverb drivers - including this one, look at V5A! - 425V on the plate and 4V at the cathode. Basically this is a preamp tube being used as a miniature power tube, and it's actually surprising that they don't blow more often. At least this one is only running at about .75W (each half of a 12AX7 is rated for 1W), you should check out what the reverb driver in a Fender Silverface amp is subjected to, and yes they do sometimes melt (literally!).
Tubes are tough. Do not try this sort of thing with solid-state components.