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I gave up looking for suitable screws and ended up cutting 4 aluminium plates (1.5mm) and screwing on the shielding. I have cut 20mm holes on the case to reach the plates. Those will hopefully hold well.. This thing is still incredibly heavy.. Thought it would be much lighter without the...

I am trying to build a head shell for a Mark II. The chassis screws are far too short and I need longer ones. I have difficulty determining what those screws are.. Maybe 0-80 UNF? Any ideas?

The SLOcloneforums schematic is very nice , but I have used the attached schematic. On the schematic there is a VTL5C4 in this position, which is much slower than a VTL5C1. I actually see the point of using a slow LDR here..This LDR is in series with the lead master pot. If signal is still...

It takes a while to fade from dirty to clean.. Yes.. Thank you.. Good point.. The LDR.. I think the resistance of this LDR (LDR4A) rises up too fast and to a very high level.. I chose those LDRs for the high dark resistance, but it is probably too much in this position.. And.. I have just...

I think, I have done it.. The photos, layouts and schematics were very helpful. Thanks to all, who have shared their experience on this forum.. I did remove the board to inspect and repair some missing traces.. There was a resistor under the board, which didn't belong there.. Swapped the tantal...

The original switch was actually defective and I have soldered a perfect lorlin rotary switch instead.. It still doesn't switch to the lead channel. This problem doesn't seem to have anything to do with this switch though. The footswitch and the external switching jacks also don't work. Let me...

You could disconnect the transformers and test with a multimeter.

The Mark IV on my bench can't switch to the lead channel. Both the footswitch and the mode select switches don't work. Switching from the rhythm 2 to the lead channel, the lead LED blinks very briefly, I hear the channel very shortly and then almost absolute silence.. By switching, the voltage...

I didn't test the diodes, but the voltages look good.. I still suspect my cheap LDRs and will build a supply circuit similar to Mark II for testing them. We'll see, if they will perform similarly. There is another optocoupler brand called silonex, which looks promising. I want to give it a try.

I am also learning.. :) To remove the cap I have bent the capacitor legs as much as I can and used some fresh solder for getting it loose.. I have replaced it with a 630V mallory 150, which is much smaller. It is high, but the circuit seems to be okay. I have replaced the 680 resistor (which...

Don't know if it will work here, but the dentist mirror is a good idea. It surely would help, when you are working on a Marshall with a ST1 board. I have decided to find the problems of this IIC before doing an upgrade.. What I have found so far: Couple of LDRs. The 100n cap in the tone...

Not my amp, I am trying to service this old beauty. I had serviced a Mark III before, but this amp will probably be much more difficult.. The lead channel isn't working. Looking at the tube broken socket lugs, the board was lifted a couple of times.. Two 270uf radial caps (Epcos brand) are...

Thanks.. Maybe somebody else could answer.. However, I will probably need to pull the PCB out anyways. Some unprofessional looking was done on the amp and I should take a look at the traces on the bottom side.

Thank you for the valuable information. I am planning to do a IIC+ conversion on a RP10 board. Am I right to assume that the conversion won't be possible without taking the PCB out?