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Head: JP-2C Limited Edition #084/325 Cabinet: Vertical 2x12 Recto-Slant loaded with WGS Retro 30 and WGS ET65 mix Effects Rack: Custom made by Casesmith Customs MIDI Control: Digital Music Ground Control (old but good) Effects Loop: TC Electronics G Major 2 Power Attenuator: Tonehunter SPL...

Ordered from Sweetwater without seeing it first. I couldn't be more pleased with the flame maple. And the amp - wow! I always hoped they would re-release the 2C+, but they actually took it a step further and improved on the original. I feel quite lucky to have one of the 325 LTDs.

Recently received my JP-2C LTD #084

Sorry for the slow response... It's not dust. I've seen this on other TriAxis units and it's a normal thing, and it's purely cosmetic. The front panel appears to be a clear polycarbonate overlay (the front panel membrane switches are behind this overlay). The graphics are simply laminated to...

SOLD http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150401723003&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

I changed the auction to Worldwide shipping, because there appears to be a demand for this overseas (buyers have been contacting me). Thanks for your comment.

I know the (out of production) Rack Interface is getting increasingly harder to find on eBay, which is why I hope nobody will be upset that I mention this here (a lot of TriAxis owners use these, including myself). I've been hoarding mine for years, but it hasn't really been used in a long time...

I made a little Christmas recording yesterday, and I wanted to share it with my friends on the Boogie Board and wish you all a Merry Christmas. This is a 16th-century carol, so it doesn't exactly "rock", but it could possibly lower your blood pressure after all that last-minute shopping...

Aren't forums great? Can't do better than free. :) The reverb tank is not going to be an issue for his Studio Series. The SS (and many of the early Studio .22 amps) don't have external reverb. There is a small spring unit mounted right inside the chassis.

How big a hurry are you in, and are you looking for hardwood/wicker or just tolex? I'm planning to build a Bubinga/wicker (full combo cabinet) for my Studio Series. The only hold-up at this point is making the decision to purchase the additional woodworking equipment I would need to do it...

Sorry, but I failed to read that you have a Mark IV footswitch (I was assuming you had the basic lead/rhythm footswitch). I'm sure there is more junk inside one of those, but it's probably still not that difficult to locate a broken wire, etc.

Are they actually making the same 200W EVM12L again, or are you referring to the new 300W design which doesn't look anything like the old model? If I'm restoring a vintage amp, I'd rather find a used 12L that looks like it belongs in the cabinet.

Someone recently told me that they were out of production, and apparently he was wrong. I apologize for the misinformation.

A Mesa Theile 1x12 in mint condition with a 200W EVM 12L speaker will sell for $350 on eBay. If it's in less-than-mint condition, you're looking at somewhere between $275 and $350. I don't see them getting cheaper anytime soon, due to the fact the thiele cabs and EVM 12L speakers are both...

I bought an Accutronics 9AB3C1B 3-spring for $27 from here: http://www.tubeampparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=RT1 I haven't had a chance to try it out yet because I'm still in the process of re-capping & retubing my Mark IIB.

Ah, well that explains it. You can save yourself a few bucks and buy the 220uF 300V Illinois/Ruby caps from this page: http://www.tubeampparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=IE That's where I got mine from.

Open the footswitch and look inside to see if any of the solder joints have broken or come loose. Wiggle every component and wire and verify that everything is being held in place by a strong solder connection. There's barely anything inside the box, so this diagnosis should take all of 5...

Road Kill? I've never heard one so I'm not dissing it in any way. But I am starting to wonder why they don't re-issue the Mark IIC+. The market would be huge, as long as it's true to the original design.

Here's a source for the UC caps you're after: http://www.boiaudioworks.com/index.php?cPath=78&language=en Just curious, which amp is this for? My Mark IIB had a pair of 220uF / 275V caps, which I replaced with Illinois 220uF / 300V. It's hard to fully re-cap an amp without buying from...

You can't get it to fit even if you were to re-drill the mounting holes? The board that holds the speaker is usually just plywood, and any extra holes won't be visible from the front of the amp, anyway.