Search results

Buy from Doc, His switches are great. I have bought several from him. He has several versions for your amp. I have 4 button for my MKIII. There are scammers out there with switches. Doc is 100%...

I see you are selling the C+ on Ebay. Did you get a new JPC? I am waiting for a comparison with guys like you and Mark who know the C+ tone and feel. A few guys who have their JP's are raving but do not have the originals to compare or at least a fresh memory of one. Appreciate it.

TTT Pm if you have an interest

Anyone know why this amp would have come with the early front panel logo? Usually the MKIV's just say Boogie not "Mesa Boogie" http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200512089068&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

http://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=76656

You didn't start a thing. You have been nothing but helpfull.

I thought these types of resistors will drift quite a bit over years. The amp is 18 years old. If you think they should be in spec, I agree I should leave them alone. I cannot get a reading on them while in the circuit.

Thanks for the help. I replaced the preamp caps and the other four smaller caps from the topside of the board and completely removed the old leads. Job came out perfect. I was shitting myself when I fired it up worried that one of the leads was touching the chasis. I was very carefull about it...

If you have a little experience, I would drain the caps. These amps seem to drain enough by playing through it and pulling the powere cord out while you keep strumming. Check with a meter. Take a look inside. I would check the standbye switch. Maybe a wire let loose and is touching the chasis...

Thnaks Bro, I did remove the power board and replaced the two 220uf caps. I had to desolder and solder the top and bottom traces. I am holding off on the other 30uf caps until I figure out the best way. So far I am siding with Stokes, but if it can be done from topside I would rather do it that...

Thanks,Can this be done without removing the main board. Will I be able to completely get the old ones out by only soldering from the top of the board? My MK IV is a 93.

Thanks. I guess my question is can you replace them without removing the board? The power board was easy to lift but that main board :( . I do not want to try to desolder the old ones from the top without advice first.

Do you do yours the way Stokes recommends on the MK IV? By cutting the old leads and soldering to them.

Thanks Stokes. How do you replace the smaller caps at the other end of the board? Two are 63v 220uf and their are two 100 volt caps as well.

That would work. I got under the power board no problem. I would kie to do it from under the board but that does not look like it's worth it. Are you saying to still leave some of the old leg on and solder the new ones in that way, or can I do the job by heating from the top and completely...

Thanks for the info. It does sound great.

Thanks for the help. It looks like it will be tough to get an iron topside between the 30uf caps and the chips on the board.

Just got an email reply from Mike Taylor at Mesa Hello there, Thanks for your email. Well, to my knowledge, the version "B" didn't start until 1995 @ around serial # 7600... BUT- I just did a serial # search on your amp (#6227) & it shipped from the factory on 4/22/1993! so, now I am...

Any way you can advise on a MK IV. I have the power board lifted. I only had to desolder one wire going to the switch. Getting to the underside of the 3 500V 30uf and bias caps looks challenging.Thanks

That is cool. I would love to know which one made it is. It sounds excellent and for reference I have a Wizard MC and a Cornford MK50H. I am about to do a cap job on it. Replacing the two 220uf cans will be easy, but lifting the main board looks like a tough job. I may only do the two caps as...