Search results

I can barely hear a difference when I flip the SC switch.

I I own a C+ DRG # 12732

Dang! A bit pricey for me but I need something like that. Maybe some day. I currently use a Furman Pro Factor R. It supposed to keep amperage in store for things plus filtering. I think its just all hype what I have. I A, B it with a very low end Furman. I can't hear any difference. To do it...

I completely understand. I thought that I was the only one who experiences these inconsistencies. Drives me absolutely crazy. I get an awesome tone one night, don't want to power down, knowing that it won't be there next day. Yep, sure enough, right on cue.

Cathode follower off of pin 3?

I found this on a IIB thread. This is the way that I've seen pull brights function. But like you mentioned and Edge59, many variations out there.

Im no amp tech but why would someone wire up a pull switch just to connect two ground points? Are you absolutely sure that lug is ground? Put a continuity meter on it to be sure, with the pull bright switch pushed in. Put a lead on it and the other to chassis. On V3B, that fatter grey lead from...

Isn't the pull function of that pot shutting to ground wherever that black lead goes?

As I mentioned, I know next to nothing about this but I'm puzzled as to why on one of the switch lugs , there's a lead going to the Lead Drive pot?

Dang, I really, really wish I could help. My years of experience has only been a C + RP11A board. When I view your pics, I get kinda lost.

Ty my friend! Indeed! We all make mistakes. Boy, I have my share!!! I know a thing or two about amps. And thats about it!! I am no amp tech by any stretch. Theres this member on here that is very knowledgeable like you who has been instrumental in helping me. He is in the process of building...

Greetings! I've been following this. Its been interesting and I've learned A few things. Don't mean to step on Edge59's toes, he is very knowledgeable. But that cap and resistor is just your basic cathode bypass circuit. Its mainly used to bias the tube. And to some degree add gain and frequency...

Hey Brother, I think we chatted before in msg about EMG'S. On fb. I'm with ya. I need a boost in front of my C+.

I need to put an overdrive pedal in front of my 1984 DRG C+ . I keep amps distortion down and boost pedal. If no pedal in front, Nuttin but mud. Some ppl here know the history of my C+. 🤷🙉

That's a great story. Ty for sharing. One thing that I never had the opportunity to play through was a modeler. Don't know if that's a good or bad thing. I never jumped on that wagon with the IR' s and such. I do hear good things about it.

I'm still on the fence trying to hear and decide if tubes are frequency enhancers. They all have their personalities but eq's in a glass tube? Man, I don't know.

Don't!!!!!👈👈👍

Greetings! I'm 65 and STILL chasing tone. I'm sitting here reminiscing to myself of my younger years when playing and searching for a different sound was so much easier. I wud pop in a new pup and Cool!. As the years rolled by, I found myself going down so many rabbit holes. Tubes, mods,.... and...

Ty for the info! I have a DRG C+. With 220k's. I typically use 6l6's in outer. I can't wrap my head around this negative bias. My outers idle at app -48vdc. If I put the 150k's in, being less resistance, wouldn't it raise the -48? Which means hotter or cooler? The negative sign stumps me. Based...

maybe some kind of clear coat. Something not too shiny. 🤷