Recent content by McBarry

Sent U a PM Don.. if you follow the jacks internally, it should be clearer what they do.. FWIW, RCA are usually reverb send/return.. Cheers, Dave

That is one tasty vintage beast - congrats..! Re removable plug - I'm not sure. Best I can think if is try it and see..!!

G'Day GreyHills, looks all totes original.. Eg, timber between p/trans and choke, the GE MOV, plate resistors, and of course caps.. everything looks ex-factory. Re crackle on low notes - rather than hypothesise, suggest change PSU caps, clean the shitters outta both PCB's (I've has crackle from...

Haven't been on for a while, but quick shouts to all U guys for TRULY STUNNING work..!! Level of detail, sense of support for this amp but also M/B.. Big high 5's all round - of course maintaining social distance tho'..!!! Cheers, Dave

Totes agree with Woodbutcher65 re caps.. ALSO check the Sprague on the B+ to ground - it's mounted near the power tubes. And if the ground polarity switch is in use, the Sprague attached to it would immediately be suspect.. Keep us posted, esp for future readers.. Cheers, Dave

If the circuit voltages are within 10% of spec, then chase a signal through and see where it fades excessively. But it does sound like it's time for experienced eyes/hands to look inside and get U a diagnosis..

Hmm.. faceplate looks just "too" shiny.. Back looks rather bare of any info at all.. Wot are the tranny codes ? The O/T looks very Fenderish too Guts shots will tell in a millisecond.. Backplate timber looks non-orig as do the supports. And missing a couple of mounting screws on the backplate...

Hey Casey, just back on after ages away.. Totes agree with Jon - LDR , esp if one was replaced.. A pic will help tell if wrongly orientated. I'd also wonder if he pulled the preamp board to do the LDR. Not strictly necessary, but for 100% guarantee the underside has no anomalies it is to only...

Nice score..!! Time for some juicy pics..! Of course, I know you'll "hate" it and need to throw it towards Canberra for a new house... LOL LOL.. db :lol: :lol:

a few thoughts.. have U verified ALL voltages against schematic are correct and stable ? Physical layout - has anything been re-routed - lots google pics of chassis shots that can help U.. Is oscillation pre-amp or power amp? Consider that something caused the original p/trans to fail.. Speaking...

Quite a few changes there.. lots of non-original wiring.. the transformer between PSU PCB and preamp PCB looks definitely out of place..is it a choke ?? Or reverb tranny..?? Both usually mounted underneath.. the black heatshrunk leads mention make me wonder it's a choke.. Transformer star...

G'Day Arne, Stephan nailed it - SLOW-BLOW fuses should be your first priority.. Theory being they can absorb a short burst over the rating.. If it still happens, it's bench time to record what's going on and begin diagnosing.. Good luck - you're def on the right path.. Cheers, Dave

Whoaaa.. that baby has LIVED..!! And early... from the re-stamped Fender OT, to the funky soldering..a real classic.. CONGRATS..! The extra PCB on side of chassis - a rectifier board ?? Looks unmolested.. Heartily suggest changing filter caps - even moreso if intermittent use.. And the toex ...

Bummer.. luckily they're plentiful.. The exact Carling part no is 110 - 63. 63 is the short bat - the next up is the 73 which is considerably longer. Avoid it.. I'm a fan of Sylvania 6L6's - they're a little hard to come by over this side of the pond though..

Couple random thoughts.. The sby switch is at an odd angle - ? mounted rotated or mech is broken/breaking.. New white cap off phase inverter.. assume leaky cap replacement ? Filters yr pointing to are bias and look orig - forty yr old... replace. Someone might get date codes off the Atoms - I'm...