Recent content by Bren10

I agree with the above post but it bears mention that when turned up, there's not more gain, just more "Boom Boom". I would say that the Dual rec is a poor choice for living room playing. The thing is... Every body wants different things. Who knows what the deal is, really.

You know, I was looking through the MF catalog this morning and I saw that they have a Zak Wild overdrive pedal. I bet that thing will really heat up your signal. Anyway, good luck. I know how much it blows when you can't get your sound.

I don't know which ones aren't being used in 50 watt mode but it sounds to me like you might have a microphonic tube. Put it in 100 watt mode and tap on each tube with a pencil eraser. I bet you'll find one that makes noise when you tap on it. If it's still under warranty, make sure you use a...

I agree that not getting enough gain from a Dual Rec is a little hard to believe. But, if you try EL34 power tubes, you might get a little more output tube distortion. This might create an illusion of more gain. Also, the suggestions of boost and/or compressor in front are good ones. Check out...

LHanson, Yeah, I know. I was addressing keithus77. Your setup sounds pretty cool. Way use that spring cover. I allways take those things off and leave them off. You've actually found a recycling solution. Way to go! So, with that switch, you can run either or both heads?

I made a switch that has a male 1/4" plug on the bottom. I plug the whole thing right into the front. It works great. I wouldn't worry about not having it. You have many options, as you've read above. As far as tubes go: I have a '92 model that I recently re-tubed. Here's what I used. For...

Don't do it without a head switcher. Remember, this is electricity we're talking about. It goes anywhere it can. If you use two heads and one speaker cabinet you'll have speaker level juice going from one amp to the other amp's output transformer secondary and thus the attached negative feedback...

LHanson, I guess we were writing at the same time. Didn't mean to re-iterate. I checked the Schematic. It's not Cathode Biased. I don't know why that would say "Class A" on the back. Oh well.

Okay, Perhaps I can clear this up. I have a .22+ that I've rebuilt extensively. Also, I have quite a bit of experience working on electronics. Especially tube guitar amps. I'm not tooting my horn, I just want to give you some definitive answers that you can trust. LHanson is right about this...

Hey, Scott... This is Brendon. If you want to bring it over, I can take a look at it. I agree that Bill would also be a good choice.

Bichen! Thanks a lot

Jerry, I totally agree with everything you're saying. Let me just say one more thing to clarify what I was saying about the "Pentode/Triode" subject. It is true that in "Triode" mode, you will have less output and volume. Also, (This is the part that I think is Important to understand) your...

First off... to RR: I don't really understand what you're talking about in terms of nomenclature. But, there's something that you failed to mention and therefore might not fully understand. So, if I tell you, maybe it will help... or... maybe not. The Lone Star models (and others you mentioned)...

AART is right. His solution is mine as well. However, Let's look at that equation again: It's 1 over ( 1/8 + 1/8 ) {make sure you use a + and not a x} The "1 over" part at the beginning is what gets you to the actual answer which is 4/1 {not 1/4} So... Here it is drawn out: 1 _______ =...

Man... this is just me saying this but I'd ditch those buggers straight away. You can get a set from Eurotubes or Mesa that will work and then you'll know what you've got. To answer your question directly, I can't find any tube data on either of those numbers. Who knows? As far as tone goes...