Recent content by ando

Man, regardless of how you are wiring up your cab, you definitely need your cable to be rated for speaker load. Insert cables will over heat and burn out - possibly even causing the outer cover to catch fire. You are pumping heavy wattage into this thing, don't risk it. Insert cables are ok for...

You could rotate the tubes around. If the problem changes it's behaviour, you know you've got a dud tube.

Get yourself a user manual. It'll be too frustrating to try to work it out on your own. The manual explains everything.

It's been ages since I changed mine - I'm really struggling to remember where it is. I think it was under a metal cover of some sort. It's just one of those coin sized, flat round batteries like the ones on computer motherboards.

Not a bad idea to change the internal battery too - that can cause unpredictable behaviour with storing patches.

Certainly repairable. If they can't replace the socket with a new one, they might choose to just permanently solder the wires in place. It doesn't look that bad to me. A decent amp tech will sort that out no problem. You won't know how much it will cost unless you submit it for appraisal though...

If you get in there with a really bright light, I think you'll find V1, V2 etc printed somewhere on the circuit board near the sockets. I don't have a 50:50 but my triaxis and 2:90 have print on the board.

Oh ok, I didn't realise you wanted to do that. I can't think of a time when I wanted to toggle the modes manually onstage. The GM2 does have 2 relay switches which can operate analog switches on the 2:90, but I can't recall if it's possible to switch them as a manual parameter from a pedal...

I did it. It's pretty easy to setup. Each Triaxis patch has the option to use the 4 switches. All you do is connect 3 short cables from the switch jacks on the Tri running to the 3 switches on the 2:90. Then save your Tri patches according to the power amp modes you want to use. Then use the TC...

I was under the impression that v.1 and v.2 are just different versions of software, rather than hardware. Maybe your Tri was just updated with the newer firmware. But it's also possible it had hardware upgrades as well. If it's got boards soldered in rather than plugs and sockets, it's had...

The 2:90 is not a "scooped metal" sound. Yes it's capable of a beefy bottom end, but it's still a rounded tone. You are talking more of a rectifier sound which is rather brittle and grating (intentionally). The difference is that you can actually wind the bass back on the 2:90. It's a more...

So try reversing the tubes!

It's worth noting that there are several FX processors that have "spillover" when you change patches - that means reverb and delay from one patch will still trail off naturally when you change to a new patch. This gets over one problem of not having a parallel fx setup.

The Ground Control Pro has been known to become corrupted from time to time. I think you can do a factory reset on it. I would try that. My Ground Control (non Pro) went haywire one time - after the reset, everything worked fine. Only happened once. It's a major pain when it happens right before...

I've never played a 395, but the 2:90 is a freaking beast of an amp. It kicks serious ***. I think you'll learn to like it.