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It's information from a conversation with someone I trust that indicated the fundamental properties of the germanium based components used couldn't be recreated with their repalcements, and this was one key reason why the reissues can't match the OGs. I really hope the reissue is true, but so...

The EU banned Germanium and since Mesa makes the same amps for their market they stopped using it.

Actually, I'd say there is. They can no longer use germanium and the replacements can't replicate the spec.

I've done what you're thinking, and it does not turn it into a red stripe. I suggest one of two ways forward as being effective. 1) Sell the blue & buy a red. 2) See if Mike B will III+ mod your blue. III+ is the best version of any III, and I've had them all- some many times over.

Of all the modern Marks I think the Five 35 has the best tone. The crunch channel is worth the cost of admission. Try this trick if you want to add some push. These are fun as well.

Amps like the Mark V and Mark VII you can listen to demos and pretty much know what you're going to get. They're fairly 2 dimensional. Amps like the Mark IIC+, SLO, and Wizard you'll never understand the hype until you play one because it's about how they feel when playing. These amps are 3...

You're not really "turning" anything. When you engage R2 on top of engaging lead, it simply adds another gain stage to the circuit.

Here's a tutorial vid I did on the loop test. The IIC+ is not an especially high gain amp- the Mark III red, blue & green are noticeably higher gain. When people think of "that IIC+ metal sound", what they are generally thinking of in their head is a Mark IIC++, AKA the Hetfield sound. Also...

Look for an early black / no stripe III with the 105 PT. Or, any III that's III+ modded. That's as close as you're going to get.

Reverb is the best online way to sell it thought they will take some fees. You can ship it directly in the case however expect to pay a few hundred bucks. You can also try Craigslist & Facebook Marketplace if you'd prefer to try & sell it locally first.

What you have there is a Mark IIB, HRG model, in the combo configuration with the EVM-12L speaker. Great amps & generally undervalued in the market. Checking the current Reverb Price Guide you're looking at a range of $1300-$1800 depending on condition, with a fair value around $1550. Pre-Covid...

Thanks man. Since I switched from the iPhone to a DAW I have been doing L/R/C tracking, and lately even moved to reamping only for better consistency. My gain is generally 4-5. Less is more when multi-tracking. Honestly same goes for in the live band where there's volume involved. P.S mic...

It's more than just the C30 mod. I had Mike B. do this to a blue stripe a bunch of years ago & it was still harsh, and still not like my red stripe. Since then he's done three III+ and a III++ mod for me, and IMO the III+ mod is 100% the way to go on any III. Those three +s (black, blue & green)...

Best case scenario- get the C+ and run an EQ in the loop. Not quite as good as the onboard, but worth the difference in cost. Next best scenario for 1/3 the cost- get a late IIB (I prefer loop modded) or a III that's III+ modded. Neither of these are AS good as a C+, however they are both...

You're welcome. :)

For the album tone we settled on a blend of E609 at unity & SM7B at -7.5dB, NOT boosted. This demo I did the other day is those two with just a little SM57 sprinkled in (-30dB). If you just want a simple answer & move on- for metal go with STR445, for anything else go with SRT448. Just be...

FWIW, as long as you have healthy power tubes that aren't TOO cold or TOO hot, I'd recommend focusing on your speaker choice instead. The speaker & the microphone choice are the top 2 determinants of tone.

IMO best all around is the 448, and best for metal is the 445. Keep in mind this is "in the room feels" though, on a close mic recording it makes no difference. Also for your MkV you're going to want RED or YEL for the inner Class A pair, and YEL or GRN for the outer Class A/B pair.

No, so long as it's not taking money away from important things like family & wellbeing. IOW if you can afford it, enjoy it!

On the IIC+ & III Coliseums, the half power switch is a 22K 2 watt dropping resistor that lowers the screen voltage about 100 volts, drops total wattage down to around 50. There are both KRG (180W) & KDRG (120W). The KDRG is the odd Mark that the MIDDLE pair is the Simul pair and can take 6L6...