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Historically, the Mark III has a market price roughly 1/3 of an equitable Mark IIC+. FWIW, with the recent slump in the market I've seen IIC+ selling in the $7-9K range and Mark III selling in the $2-3K range.

The JP is honestly a great amp as long as you don't A/B it with an OG C+. And, honestly, it's more useful in the live band- my favorite of the modern Marks. Also, if you get the channel volumes up over 1:00 the amp really does open up nicely and get closer to the feels of the OGs, but it's...

The single channel thing is likely why the only modern one I truly love is the Cali Tweed. That is a sweet amp.

On my channel I did a whole series comparing the VII modes to the originals, have a look. Yes, all the same cab in an iso box / reamp setup. Only change is the head. Everything they've done after the IV is very sterile compared to the OGs. If you're used to & happy with the modern stuff, be...

OP, are you talking about an original 800 or a reissue? If you're used to the feels of an original, then I suggest you go find a Mark II, III or maybe a IV and give it a go. If you're used to a reissue then you may be happy with a Mark VII or a Badlander. I'd start with a Badlander with...

The V, JP & VII have big iron, and it doesn't matter. That's because it doesn't matter! The best pure tone from any II or III is with the 60 and it has small iron with PV in the high 400s. Go figure. Hey now, I owned the VII for 6 days... Of all the "reissue" tones they've done in the V, JP &...

Even if they do make a(nother) reissue- unless they start making amps with Germanium LDRs again (which is banned in Europe), it's not going to matter. It'll sound more like the other three times they tried to recreate the C+ circuit than it will the original.

Yes, that was definitely a RP11A.

Best thing you can do is get a Greenback loaded cab.

1513X had CP1D. Sorry I don't have photos from the other ones I've had. I had IIC+ 1385X D.

On average I've seen YEL in the A/B in the low-mid 20s so it looks like your A/B bias resistor may have drifted cold. No big deal as long as you have hotter pairs to compensate, so then BLU might actually be the ticket in your case.

That sounds about normal-ish. I'd save the YEL for the A slots & grab some GRY or maybe even BLU for the A/B slots. On average I see about a 6mA shift per color code. That said your A/B slots are colder than average for a C+. Component drift is a thing! EM is right about the pragmatic...

Yes- contact Scott [email protected] He's built more than 10 of them for me (I've lost count) and his work is excellent.

While Mesas aren't as sensative to power tube bias as something like a Marshall, since Mesa's gain comes from the preamp section, in the Class A slots you still want to put a ceiling of 45-50 mA at idle and on the A/B slots say around 35-40 mA. Of course the bias % will vary a bit with wall...

Honestly I'm not sure. The thing to do would be to try & find photos of green stripes without it.

That's to indicate the "reverb mod". It's an update in the MKIII design to help the reverb suck less.

Sidenote answer- that's what they did in the MkVII.

Indeed! A good front, back, and gut shot would be awesome. :)

You still have the only KOB I've ever seen. Would love to have some pics for my group.

@Dave Dalton I actually have a Boogie Mark Coliseum owner's group on Facebook, we have a LOT of knowledge about these amps in there. They are rare & well regarded. Here's a link if you'd like to stop by. If you're looking to sell we can also help with pricing & potential buyers. If you're not...